Archive for the ‘Food’ Category

“Amazing Maize:” Corn and the Midwest

Sunday, December 9th, 2012

On an impromptu trip to the Indiana State Museum this year in Indianapolis, I stumbled upon an exhibit called “Amazing Maize” and had to roll my eyes and chuckle at the backwards, redneck state in which I live.  Only in Indiana would they think corn is important enough for a museum exhibit and call it “Amazing” at that.  Despite my superior attitude, I found myself wandering into the exhibit.  Okay, fine.  I’ll admit it.  Corn IS king of amazing.  Prior to viewing the exhibit, my notion of corn is that sweet corn is an essential summer treat and it tastes great with butter.  I never took much time to consider how corn is an inextricable symbol of my upbringing in the Midwestern United States, or its pervasive presence in so many of the items I utilize in daily life.  Corn feeds the livestock that sustains Americans all over the nation, it’s the basis for hundreds of products Americans eat and drink every day, and the Midwestern economy.

Commercials in the 1990s for Indiana Beach Amusement Resort in Monticello, Indiana used the tagline “There’s more than corn in Indiana” in an attempt to draw visitors to the park.  Little do they know that most Americans should be happy that there is so much corn in Indiana, Iowa, and other corn-producing states in the Midwest.    Considering how essential corn is to American life, it’s easy to conclude that the Midwest, as the “breadbasket” of America that produces the corn and wheat that keeps the nation going, is the foundation upon which American life and commerce is built.

The Indiana State Museum noted in their exhibit that, “it takes 25 corn plants per person per day to support the American way of life” (Indiana State Museum, 1).  Corn is used in many of the foods American eat from corn chips to the high fructose corn syrup in popular beverages, but our corn consumption goes beyond ingestible items.    Corn is also used to make fuel, biodegradable plastics, packing peanuts, Cosmetics, kitty litter, poster paints, and a variety of paper goods.  I was surprised to discover that corn is also used to make textiles and Ford Motor Company makes various automobile components from corn (Indiana State Museum 2-3).  We knew we were eating corn on a daily basis, but it’s hard to imagine that we are driving it as well.

The versatility of corn is apparent when you reflect on the variety of items produced with its parts from stem to kernel.  The most obvious area is that it is used in food.  Corn’s presence in our diets extends far beyond the ears of sweet corn we enjoy during summer months.  Consider that the cows and poultry Americans eat every day have been fed corn and cornstalks as much of their diet.  The Environmental Protection Agency reports that “about 80 percent of all corn grown in the U.S. is consumed by domestic and overseas livestock, poultry, and fish production.”  They note that only about 12% of U.S. corn crops end up in food that are consumed directly like corn chips or indirectly like the high fructose corn syrup in many foods (EPA).  This is interesting because we consume about three pounds per day in the form of milk, poultry, cheese, meat, butter and other products made from corn (Lee). The brown and gold coloring added to soft drinks and pudding to make them enticing are corn-based, canned foods are preserved in a liquid containing corn, and candy is dusted with corn starch to prevent stickiness.  Corn Syrup provides body to thin food such as sauces and soups and is the basis for candy and ketchup.  Corn oil is used to make soap, mayonnaise, and salad dressings (Lee).  Corn is present in so many of the products we use on a daily basis.  American life as we know it would be impossible without the corn provided by Midwestern states.

Corn is not only used to make the foods we eat, but to transport and package them as well.  The purple marks stamped onto meats are made with corn and it is also used to make cartons and cardboard used in packaging.  Corn is also used to make pain relievers, toothpaste, detergent, match heads, charcoal briquettes, metal and plastic molds, antibiotics, ceramic spark-plug insulators, and embalming fluid (Lee).  Not a day goes by in the life of any American that they are not using a product made from this Midwestern staple.  While the Midwestern United States is not the only place in the world where corn is grown, it is the largest producer of corn in the world.  The Environmental Protection Agency notes that in 2000, the U.S. produced nearly 10 billion bushels of the 23 billion bushels produced in the world (EPA). Most of these crops are grown in the Midwest, with Iowa being the top producer.  Iowa has been the top corn producer in the U.S. for nearly two decades, growing almost 2.3 billion bushels of corn on 13.7 million acres last year.  Iowa grows three times more corn than Mexico, the country that introduced corn to the world (ICPB/ICGA).  The American Midwest produces and exports a product that not only fuels American lifestyles, but has a global impact.

Native Americans gave the first European settlers corn seeds and taught them how to grow it.  Legend has it that the Native Americans came along and taught Colonists how to cultivate corn out of kindness, but it was more likely coercion.  Kemps and Tassore, two Pawhatans held captive by Virginian Colonists in 1609 were likely forced to teach corn cultivation.  Previous attempts to grow corn before the abduction had garnered disappointing results (Warman, 151).  Captain John Smith referred to the Spring of 1609 as “the starving time” and said, “for one basket of corn they would have sold their souls” (Fussell, 154).  Squanto famously added to Colonial knowledge of corn growth in 1621, such as the trick to fertilize seeds by burying a fish with them.  The first Thanksgiving was celebrated that year to commemorate their first successful harvest.  It was not to become a national holiday until Lincoln’s presidency (Warman, 152-153).  Corn was at the forefront of the creation of the nation’s favorite food fest, but the story is not as glossy and romantic as school children are lead to believe.

Once the colonists became adept at cultivating corn, it became an integral part of daily life.  Since the Colonies lacked a currency, rent, taxes, and debts were commonly paid with corn (Hays, 71).  Colonists had no dairy cattle, so they made ersatz milk from the juices of corn, chestnuts, and hickory nuts (Robbins, X1).  Without corn to nourish early European settlers, the history of North America would have been quite different.  Corn was also the catalyst for development of Midwestern lands.  The rich, fertile soils of Iowa, Illinois, Indiana, and Ohio proved ideal for the crop.  These were areas where corn had not traditionally been grown in ancient times (Gibson).  This area is commonly referred to as the “Corn Belt.”

While most Americans undoubtedly take corn for granted much like I did, scientists have been working hard for decades to determine the genetic make-up of corn.  Genetic mapping of the corn genome was completed in 2009.  Through this research scientists found that the teosinte plant is the ancestor of modern corn (Indiana State Museum, 3).  The domestication of teosinte has been traced to the Balsas River Valley in south central Mexico.  Nearly 10,000 years ago, humans first began selecting maize plants for desirable characteristics and the corn plant began its humble beginnings (Indiana State Museum, 3).  There are five main types of corn: dent, sweet, flint, flour, and popcorn.  All of these varieties were developed by Native Americans before Europeans were first exposed to corn in 1493.  By then, Native American tribes such as the Hopi and Iroquois were already saving seeds for particular traits.  They staggered planting times and separated fields of different varieties to preserve each type’s distinct traits (Indiana State Museum, 4).  These early people had begun the cultivation of a plant that would eventually become one of the most important crops in the world and would put the American Midwest at the forefront of production.

The nomadic nature of many Native American tribes helped spread the corn seed from its origin in the Balsa River Valley of Mexico.  An archeological study of bat caves in New Mexico found corn cobs that are 5,600 years old.  Corn pollen grain found from drill cores cut 200 feet below Mexico City were determined to be 80,000 years old (Gibson).  Corn was an essential crop for ancient people in southern North American and people in the Andes Mountains of South America for thousands of years (Fussell, 89).  These people, like the Native Americans mentioned previously, showed great ingenuity and agricultural sophistication with their use and cultivation of corn.

Not only does the American Midwest owe much of its economic success in agriculture to the humble corn plant, the Aztec, Mayan, and Incan cultures all relied on corn crops as an essential source of food and materials for making products such as mats, trays, cushions, bottle stoppers, combs, and hammocks.  Corn shucks were also useful for making inexpensive mattresses (Fussell, 244).  Products manufactured from corn in modern times required complex machinery and chemical processes, but much like ancient tribes, we are still using corn plants to create a multitude of products.  No other plant lends itself to such a myriad of uses.  Sources claim there are anywhere from 500 to 3500 different documented uses for corn leaves, stalks, husks, and cobs.  The Native American word “maize” means both “bread of life” and “grain-of-the-gods” (Hays, 72).  This moniker makes perfect sense when one considers the integral part corn has played in the development and success of so many cultures and societies.

Corn left North American and went global with Christopher Columbus.  He first brought it back to Spain and from there it spread throughout Europe.  By the 16th century, corn had spread all over the world at a remarkably fast rate. (Indiana State Museum, 4)  These developments proved problematic in some areas.  In Africa, the presence of corn fueled a growing slave trade.  Slavery was practiced in some form on every continent by the mid-fifteenth century.  America before the arrival of Columbus was no exception (Warman, 51).  Slaves were purchased with goods from Europe rather than money (Warman, 56).  The Portugese were leaders of the European slave trade around the time Columbus first brought corn to Europe.  This is likely how corn ended up in Africa.  Corn became the dietary mainstay of the slave trade  (Warman, 60).  Corn did not create the slave trade and slavery would certainly have continued without it, but it offered an inexpensive, hearty plant with multiple uses that could be used to feed the millions of slaves moved across the Atlantic Ocean.

The increased availability of corn in Africa lead to population increase due to an abundant food supply.  Growing tribes competing for land and resources began fighting and selling each other off to the slave trade to survive.  To this day corn comprises up to 90 percent of some African’s diets (Indiana State Museum, 5).  A humble grain that kept early colonists alive and has delighted millions of people at Midwestern county fairs helped sustain one of the most abhorrent inhumanities in the history of man.  The “bread of life” was used to take life away from the innocent.  This smear on the good name of corn is only part of the grain’s mostly unblemished history, but it is part that should not be ignored or forgotten.

By the mid-nineteenth century, corn had been a staple of western life for thousands of years.  It did not, however, become big business until after the Civil War.  In the 1940s, corn production increased from an average of 20 – 30 bushels per acre to an astounding 50 bushels per acre (Fussell, 67).  Corn is now grown on fewer acres than in the past, but the yield per acre is much higher.  Modern farmers grow five times more corn than in the 1930s on 20 percent less land (CFI).  Indiana is the fifth-leading corn producer in the U.S.  It is the second-most in popcorn production.  In 2011, $32 billion in corn was sold by Indiana farmers (CFI).

Corn was partly the catalyst for the growth of the University system in America.  June 2012 marks the 150th anniversary of the Morrill Act of 1862.  Signed into effect by Abraham Lincoln the same year as the Homestead Act and Emancipation Proclamation, the Act provided government-funded stipends through 30,000 acres of land given to each state to provide for institutions of higher education with an emphasis on agriculture and mechanic arts.  Prior to the Morrill Act, most universities adhered to a traditional emphasis of liberal arts education (Brown).  Americans with little access to higher education had a unique opportunity to learn methods practical to their lives as farmers and engineers.  The Morrill Act “scratched several itches,” said CSU President Tony Frank. “There was obviously a big federal push about how do we feed this growing country. You also have a society that is shifting from an agricultural foundation to an industrial foundation,” Frank said (Brown).  The government knew that an uneducated workforce could not develop new methods to increase corn production.  A more educated populous could better provide for the growing population and bring American agricultural production into a new era.

Most of the land-grant universities are now large schools offering a variety of areas of study.  Schools like Purdue University, Iowa State University, Rutgers, Cornell, Ohio State University, Texas A&M (the A stands for Agriculture and the M for mechanics), and University of Wisconsin-Madison all began as land-grant schools (USDA).  Corn was not the only crop to benefit from the innovations of land-grant schools, but it was at the forefront of research for Midwestern schools.  In 1896, P.G. Holden became the first professor of agronomy in the United States when he joined the faculty of the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign.  He became famous after he moved to Iowa State University and began his “corn gospel trains” where he would teach secrets to corn cultivation success while traveling on a train.  He became known as a “corn evangelist” for his early efforts at public programing (Indiana State Museum, 6).  A modern student may be dumbfounded at the concept of people jumping onto a train to learn how to better grown corn, but it was still the basis of many family’s livelihood and there were few methods available to communicate this precious information.

Corn has been an essential part to building up American society, but is it now destroying our health?  Debate has been raging on both sides of the high fructose corn syrup (HFCS) issue for years with no clear winner in sight.  Corn farmers lean toward the opinion that HFCS is a scapegoat for the larger problem of a growing sedentary lifestyle in America and an over-consumption of calories.  In 2010, the Corn Refiners Association petitioned the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), asking that “corn sugar” be used as a substitute for high fructose corn syrup.  They opine that it’s more descriptive because HFCS is a sugar made from corn.  The FDA denied their petition in May 2012 (Corn Refiners Association).

CBS News released a report about a study published November 27, 2012 by Dr. Michael Goran, co-director of the Diabetes and Obesity Research Institute at the Keck School of Medicine at the University of Southern California.  Dr. Goran and his colleagues found that Daily calorie intake, BMI, and total sugar intake are similar regardless of where people live in the world.  They found that countries with the highest levels of high fructose corn syrup consumption also had higher rates of Type 2 diabetes compared to countries with lower consumption (Castillo).  Dr. Goran noted that while table sugar has a stable level of 50 percent fructose, 50 percent glucose, the level of fructose fluctuates from 42 to 65 percent in high fructose corn syrup.  He further states that how we metabolize these sugars vary from sugars found naturally in fruit because the fiber content in fruit slows absorption (Castillo).  Refined fructose is absorbed into the blood faster creating unhealthy spikes in levels.  The debate will likely continue with new studies and evidence supporting claims on either side.

Corn has been our salvation in the United States, providing the sustenance to survive the first winters in a new country and has potentially become part of our downfall as a contributor to the rise in obesity and Type 2 diabetes.  It has been a part of some of our greatest moments with the building of the land-grant university system that has provided quality education to millions of Americans to the lowest points in humanity with the African slave trade.  Along the way, it has always adapted to whatever humans have done to it and remained a strong part of feeding the growing global population.  The Midwestern United States is at the heart of the production of the grain that fuels the world’s people with nutritious food and cars with ethanol blended gasoline.  We have yet to see all of the places corn production will take us and the various forms it will take.  We do know that the American Midwest will be at the heart of it all, feeding the world and supporting modern living.

 

Works Cited

Brown, Fred. 150 Years of the Morrill Act of 1862. Colorado State University.  May 2012. Web. 27, Nov. 2012. <http://www.colostate.edu/morrillact/>

Castillo, Michelle. Rising Type 2 Diabetes Linked to Increases in High Fructose Corn Syrup Consumption. CBSNews.com. CBS News. 27, Nov. 2012.

Center for Food Integrity (CFI). Indiana Farmers Feed Us: Indiana Corn Farmer. N.d. Web. 27, Nov. 2012. < http://www.farmersfeedus.org/in/corn/10>

Corn Refiner’s Association.  Sweet Surprise: The Facts about High Fructose Corn Syrup. n.d.  Web. 27, Nov. 2012 <http://sweetsurprise.com/hfcs-faqs>

U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). Ag Center: Ag 101. 23, Oct. 2012. Web. 27, Nov. 2012. http://www.epa.gov/agriculture/ag101/printcrop.html

Fussell, Betty. The Story of Corn: The Myths and History, The Culture and Agriculture, The Art and Science of America’s Quintessential Crop. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, Inc., 1992.

Gibson, Lance and Garren Benson.  Origin, History, and Uses of Corn (Zea mays). Agronomy 212: Crop Growth, Production, and Management. Iowa State University Department of Agronomy.  Jan. 2002. Web. 27, Nov. 2012. <http://www.agron.iastate.edu/courses/agron212/Readings/Corn_history.htm>

Hays, Wilma and R. Vernon Vernon.  Foods the Indians Gave Us.  How to Plant, Harvest, and Cook the Natural Indian Way. New York: Ives Washburn, Inc., 1973.

Indiana State Museum. Museum Exhibit Tells Story of Corn, Humankind. Indianapolis: ISM, 8, March, 2011. Web. 27, Nov. 2012. <http://www.incorn.org/>

Iowa Corn Promotion Board / Iowa Corn Growers Association (ICPB/ICGA). Iowa Corn: Creating Opportunities for Long-Term Iowa Corn Grower Profitablility. n.d. Web 27, Nov. 2012. < http://www.iowacorn.org/en/corn_use_education/faq/>

Lee, Hilde. “The Versatility of Corn.” Daily Progress. 5 Sept. 2012, Web. Entertainment Sec. 27, Nov. 2012. <www.dailyprogress.com>

Robbins, Maria Polushkin. American Corn. New York: St. Martin’s Press., 1989.

United States Department of Agriculture (USDA). Land-Grant Colleges and Universities (1862, 1890, and 1994). National Institute of Food and Agriculture is the former Cooperative State Research, Education and Extension Service (CSREES). n.d. Web. 27, Nov. 2012. <http://www.csrees.usda.gov/qlinks/partners/partners_list.pdf>

Warman, Arturo. Corn and Capitalism: How a Botanical Bastard Grew to Global Dominance. Trans. Nancy L. Westrate. North Carolina: The University of North Carolina Press: 2003. Print.

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Food for thought

Sunday, October 7th, 2012

Consider this – food for thought- homemade food, fast food, comfort food, ethnic food, and exotic food. Food is everywhere and, for the most part, is accessible to everyone. Here in the Midwest, aka ‘the bread basket,’ orchards and farms are plentiful. They produce corn, wheat, and soybean and provide us with a variety of fruits and vegetables. As for meat consumption, cow, pig, turkey, and chicken are among the most commonly raised animals along with lamb and goat, which are additional options for those who like the variety and or for those of different ethnicities. Eggs, milk, and cheese are also on top of the list when it comes to Midwestern refrigerator necessities.

I recently posted a two part question on a social networking site, Facebook. I had asked others to leave a comment regarding the types of foods they grew up on and the types of foods they cook now. I had also asked them to include the state and the area these foods were consumed in. Some individuals responded with something simple, while others elaborated a bit more. It was clear that this topic was one that brought out the love of food, childhood memories, and traditions.

Twenty- five individuals had responded to my post. Of the responses, the majority were females; all were between the ages of 25 & 53. There were four states mentioned: Illinois, Indiana, Missouri, and Wisconsin. Here is what I have learned. A large majority of Midwesterners depend on and purchase their foods from grocery stores, while others make time for the hunt and or gathering process. Many enjoy eating out, while others enjoy cooking at home.

Midwesterners love their meat and potatoes, along with various types of breads and other grain products, such as hot and cold cereals. They enjoy grilling out and when doing so, are big on barbecue food items such as meat, various potato salads, cheesy pastas, garden salads, and corn on the cob. They are also partial to one pot meals such as chilies, stews, and casseroles. Crock pots are a great option as they hold one pot meals, which are convenient for working families wanting something home cooked.

They also enjoy eating out, and since we are the melting pot of several diverse ethnicities, it is not that uncommon for a person to eat a meal from a different cultural restaurant on any given day of the week. Some of these would include, but are not limited too, Greek, Chinese, Tai, Japanese, Indian, Italian, Spanish, Mexican, Irish, Mediterranean, and Cuban. These types of restaurants could be found all over the Midwest, but more so in bigger cities were the diverse population is larger.

Another common trend in eating out that has been increasing, is the convenience and love of fast food. Many people talked about McDonalds, but agreed that it was not Midwestern since they were found all over the U.S. and over seas. White Castle, Popeye’s and Churches chicken, Chicago style Vienna beef hotdogs, and pizza were among the favorites, and can only be found in this region unless they are frozen and shipped elsewhere. As for pizza, that became highly debatable depending on the area were one resided in. In Chicago Illinois, Uno’s deep dish, Homerun Inn, and Connie’s were among the favorites. Even here in Indiana, some voted for Papa Johns and Pizza Hut, while others liked the more privately  owned made pizzas better. Many stated that the dough, cheese, sauce, and ingredients were of higher quality. Of course, Chicagoans continued to stand their ground by stating their pizza is still the best around.

I have also learned that many people still enjoy cooking at home even though they have busy lifestyles. They carry out family traditions while preparing foods they grew up on.One woman who grew up in southern Illinois, talked about eating her grandmother’s porcupine meatballs and rabbit stew. She stated that everything was fresh- from the herbs & garden vegetables to the meat that was trapped a day earlier. Another woman, who grew up in Missouri talked about eating a lot of pork and fresh caught fish from local ponds and lakes. She stated that fried foods, grits, potatoes, and sweet potato pies were always plentiful in their house and at their family gatherings. A man talked about his love for dairy products, particularly cheese. He stated that even though he no longer resides in Wisconsin, he could still purchase his favorites from back home. Here is a website that is worth checking out if Wisconsin cheese sparks your interest. https://www.wisconsincheesemart.com/

Several people talked about hunting for deer, duck, and wild turkey, while others talked about trapping small animals such as rabbit, raccoon, squirrel, and possum. Many of these people had family roots from the south- Kentucky, Tennessee, and Alabama. Some of these people stated that they do this for the love of the sport, but all agreed that they continue to carry on their hunting traditions, because that is what they grew up on and believe it to be better quality meat than what one would get from a commercial store. Some people talked canning their own fruits and vegetables even though grocery stores have these items readily accessible. One woman talked about faithfully utilizing the orchards to pick fresh fruits and vegetables in order to can them as well as make jams, jelly, berry and fruit pies. While another mentioned utilizing local farmers markets to find fresh produce. She stated that she keeps her family’s health and environment in mind when making a choice to purchase locally.

If I had to draw a conclusion on what I believe to be a Midwestern meal, I would say it would constitute a meat, potato, vegetable, bread, and a desert. I would also like to say that one pot dishes are something that is common for the Midwest. One pot meals (stews & casseroles) can contain fresh herbs, meat, potatoes, and vegetables all in one in order to provide a nutritious and fulfilling meal- and don’t forget fresh baked bread, biscuits, or dumplings on the side. In addition, I do not see eating at restaurants as a regular Midwestern activity, instead I see it as more of a common societal event that occurs no matter where person lives. The demands of everyday life and the enjoyment of eating a variety of foods gives a person an alternative option for meals. Over all, it comes down to one thing, use what you have on hand from the cupboards, the pantry, the fridge, and the back yard – and remember fresh, as opposed to being shipped, is always best.

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Talking Inside Corn and Soybeans

Monday, December 12th, 2011

Thank heaven for local newspapers!  There we can learn a thing or two about certain basic realities of life – realities on which everything else we do vitally depends.

Here, for example, is an article from the New Richland (MN) Star Eagle titled “Assessing the Harvest.” Rachel Rietsema’s piece puts Mark Bernard front-and-center and together they don’t disappoint.  Here is a glimpse into Midwestern life that glossier publications give us only rarely, if at all.

You’ve heard of  talk that’s “inside baseball” or “inside football” – the technical, jargon-laden chat of fans that really know their stuff.  Half the programming on ESPN falls into these categories.

In fact, you may wonder at times why we expend so much air-time and personal-time yakking about kids games that have no lasting real-world consequences.   What possible difference does hitting a baseball three times out of every ten at-bats make in the world outside the white lines for anybody except the hitter? Is putting a ball through a hoop a skill that transfers to any other field of human endeavor?

On the other hand, the skills required to get corn and soybeans planted, cultivated, harvested, and marketed make possible all the other skills our so-called civilization glorifies.  If we don’t eat well, we won’t do anything else well.  In fact, forget “well”; we won’t be doing anything – period.

The Midwest has long been called “the world’s breadbasket.”  Mark Bernard’s insider’s look at corn and soybeans shows you the hard work, skill, and luck behind that moniker.  Here’s what the largest part of the Midwest is all about.

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Albanese Confectionery Group Inc.

Saturday, April 30th, 2011

While driving down the long and lonely U.S. 30, the colorful building of Albanese Candy can be spotted.  It is fascinating to passing visitors and often underappreciated by those who reside in the area.  Overall, the Willy Wonka-like candy factory has a lot of potential, but a long way to go toward success.

The Albanese Confectionery Group Inc. is a US-based manufacturer of gummi’s, chocolate, and other confections.  The only locations of this food product company can be found in Northwest Indiana.  In fact, both locations are in Merrillville, Indiana.  This edible product producing company was established over 27 years ago and to this day uses ingredients produced not only in the U.S., but also in Europe. (http://www.albaneseconfectionery.com).

Although this company is older than most of the students attending Valparaiso University, it has yet to break away from the northwestern Indiana area and make its way across the nation like most food producing companies do, such as Jimmy John’s.  In the time that this candy company should have been franchising its product and traveling out the East and West coasts, it has been occupied with producing different technologies and innovating gelatin production.  For example, the 1998 and 2001 inventions that aided in the breakthrough of flavor release in gelatin articles may seem to play an important part in the company’s growth, but at the same time could have been achieved more quickly and effectively if the company found the time to expand (http://www.albaneseconfectionery.com).

Furthermore, winning the 2002, 2006 and 2007 Professional Candy Buyers Product of the Year awards must have been prestigious moments that also could have been achieved with a possibly swifter presentation if the candy company expanded their product throughout the nation (http://www.albaneseconfectionery.com).  In fact, another self-made franchising company, Jimmy John’s, which could be found in several locations of Northwest Indiana was established almost in the same year and is now part of over 1000 locations all around the nation (http://www.jimmyjohns.com).  In the end, the Albanese confectionery has become renowned for the use of vitamins with confections, but with only two locations in the entire nation to vouch for their hard work and dedication (http://www.albaneseconfectionery.com).

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One of Chicago’s Finest

Wednesday, March 30th, 2011

I recently visited one of my favorite steakhouses in downtown Chicago: Fogo de Chao (Fogo).  Fogo is a Brazilian inspired meat extravaganza which appeals to the meat-lovers of the world, who yearn to try something different every so often.  The experience (yes, it is an experience) guarantees a fiery good time, which by the end of the meal, will force one to wonder if the button on their pants will remain intact.  Fogo de Chao is the ultimate dining experience, infused with flavor, distinction and originality, and although Brazilian influences are present, there is a definite presence of the Midwestern culture.  The homey, warm, classic, and comfortable atmosphere, the pride showcased in the quality of food and the representation of meat as the prominent dining experience allows the customer to gain a sense of what Midwesterners value in the fine dining realm.  

Fogo de Chao, which means “fire on the ground” in Portuguese, refers to a traditional gathering around the fire including food, family and friends.  The dining experience begins the moment you sit down and listen to the hospitable gaucho chefs explain just how everything “works.”  Each guest is given both a green disc and a red disc and can pace their meals by using them.  The green disc signals that you are ready for the meats to start circulating, and the red disc allows for a breather.  With so many meats to choose from, there is definitely something to satisfy everyone’s personal taste, including vegetarians.

Imported from all over the world, including New Zealand and Brazil, Fogo de Chao’s meats are always fresh.  Radiating from the fire pit, the robust, intense and sultry aromas evoke a “come hither” feeling.  Simply seasoned with rock salt and grilled to perfection, Fogo offers filet mignon, two different top sirloins (picanha and alcatra), rib eye (beef ancho), bottom sirloin (fraldinha), beef ribs (costela), lamb (cordeiro), chicken (frango), pork ribs (costela de porco), pork loin (lombo), and sausage (linguica).  The pork loin encrusted with parmesan cheese is always moist and never lacking a hearty flavor.  The meats, which arrive on skewers, are prepared to each diner’s tasted and then carved tableside.  To add to the depth of selection, some of the meats are offered two different ways, by either wrapping them in bacon or varying the intensity of seasoning.  If you have a preference for rare over medium, there is no need to worry: the gauchos will cater to your every whim.  To ensure that you do not go hungry, they also offer generous portions of warm cheese bread, crisp polenta, creamy garlic mashed potatoes, and caramelized bananas, at no extra cost.  The side dishes, which are often left on the side, are tasty and do not detract from the devouring of meat.  If one is inclined to taste just one of the dishes, the caramelized bananas are a must have.  They are perfectly sweet, melt in your mouth and nicely cleanse the pallet.

While vegetarians may view the concept of consuming mass quantities of meat as grotesque, they will find that Fogo does have an expansive salad bar that will surpass their greatest expectations.  In fact, there is a salad-bar-only option, which is far cheaper than the meat-included price.  The all-you-can eat buffet consists of a colossal spread including items such as assorted greens, fresh mozzarella, artichoke bottoms, jumbo asparagus, prosciutto, marinated mushrooms, Brazilian hearts of palm, and smoked salmon.  You may find yourself making a second trip back, especially if Waldorf salad is one of your must-haves.  The crispy, cold apples and juicy grapes, mixed with their yogurt based dressing, is refreshing and addicting.  Just be sure to watch your consumption at the salad bar if you plan on participating in the meat-a-thon that will ensue.

Fogo de Chao prides itself on the array of meat offered and the quality and quantity produced, so prepare yourself for an eating extravaganza.  This “extravaganza” does come at a cost, though.  Lunch will run you $32.50 and dinner is a steep $49.50.  In fact, many choose Fogo to host business lunches because not only will they walk out carnivorously satisfied, but also financially stable because the boss had to pick up the bill.

Fogo de Chao’s story began in the countryside of Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil, where the two founding brothers grew up and immersed themselves in the Gaucho culture.  An element of the culture is churrasco, which is the Gaucho way of roasting meats over fire pits.  The brothers left their homes in 1975 and pursued careers as churrasqueiro chefs.  They developed the Fogo concept within four years, and by 1979 the first Fogo de Chao opened its doors in Porto Alegre, Brazil.   The success of the restaurant allowed for expansion to other Brazilian cities and eventually the United States in 1997. 

The popular churrasco method of cooking may be familiar to you if you have ever visited Gaucho’s Brazilian steakhouse in Valparaiso, IN.  Although the concept is the same as Fogo’s, the quality of food and overall experience is quite dissimilar.  They offer 12 different meats, a meat and seafood combo, and the price is a bit cheaper ($34.95 for dinner), but the quality of the meat (purchased locally), salad bar and ambience are all indicative of your typical all-you-can eat buffet restaurant.  The liveliness and authenticity of the décor pales in comparison to the sheer magnificence Fogo de Chao delivers.  Once a diner at Fogo, you may find that Gaucho’s is no longer an option when a meat craving strikes.

As you flip between red and green, be sure to take a look at the drink menu.  Fogo’s extensive drink list offers their signature Brazilian caipirinha, and for those interested in a non-alcoholic refreshment, the Brazilian soda is an invigorating treat.  Although rather pricey, Fogo’s wine list is impressive.  The selection ranges from European to American to Chilean wines.  Desserts are also part of the experience, but not included in the price.  If you want to end your meal with something sweet, the papaya cream and South American flan are big sellers and a simply divine ending to a meal designed to please.

The Chicago restaurant is located in the desirable River North area.  When visiting Fogo (Chicago), you may want to allot for enough time to savor all that the downtown area has to offer.   The location is surrounded by lively bars, a variety of restaurants and shops galore.  When choosing Fogo as your dining destination, be sure to make a reservation.  You will find the walk-in waits are quite long, unless you are happy to perch yourself on a stool at the bar for a while.

Fogo strikes an enthusiastic nerve right from the get-go with its dazzling blue tower emblazoned with “Fogo de Chao.”  The authentic ground fire is welcoming and exemplifies the meaning of “Fogo de Chao.”  The cozy restaurant is enormous with a series of dining rooms, all including comfortable seating, and additional party rooms are available for private and semi-private bookings.  The walls are adorned with paintings of gauchos and the orange glow cast by the chandeliers adds to the warmth of space.  The crackling fireplace does a great job of keeping the dining room toasty, while also providing a homey, rustic feeling.  The gauchos, dressed in fashionable trousers and leather boots, are more than just servers; they are chefs who have been trained in the churrasco cooking tradition.  Their knowledge provides guidance for the customer when it comes time to pick and choose from the array of meats.  Located at the center of the restaurant, the grandiose salad bar is ornately decorated with seasonal flowers.  While vast in size, the restaurant maintains an intimate setting both visually and physically appealing.

Fogo de Chao’s variety of meat provides an opportunity to taste test some of the world’s finest meats, all in one restaurant.  The experience is high impact and almost gluttonous, but it is beyond satisfying as long as you pace yourself and understand that your diet will have to skip a day.  Fogo de Chao is well worth every dollar spent, especially when looking for a bit of an escape from your normal dining experience.  To all the meat-lovers in Chicago:  Brazil’s succulent and popular meat craze is here.  Throw on your baggy pants and prepare yourself for a blazing good time, chock-full of meat, meat and more meat.

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Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations visits Chicago

Sunday, March 29th, 2009

Now that our class is steadily making its way towards and through the great city of Chicago, I feel that I can now write a little about a recent television episode of Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations, which appears on the Travel Channel at various times, in which he visited the Midwestern metropolis. Bourdain does a great job of showing not only the vast amount of good food that can be had in the city, but he does a good job of getting into the culture and history of the city as well. I will eventually get to the episode and Chicago itself later on in this post, but I believe for one to truly understand the show one must get an idea of its host and its true nature. For those of you unfamiliar with the show, its star Anthony Bourdain is a well-renowned chef and food critic. In each episode, he travels to a different location where he tries out local eateries and any cultural experiences he deems worthy of trying. Sounds like every other travel/food show you see on TV right? Well, that’s where Bourdain comes in; he is anything but your typical TV travel host.

Bourdain is a native New Yorker who has had over 27 years of professional cooking experience at nearly every position from bus boy and dishwasher, to line cook, and chef. The chef’s notoriety and celebrity grew when he published his work Kitchen Confidential. The work which is a sort of memoir and behind the scenes look at the workings of a restaurant became an international bestseller in the year 2000. Bourdain writes about the often chaotic, obsessive, and masochistic relationships that form in the kitchens of restaurants where people are fanatic in their intense passion for food. His work offers great insight into the economics of restaurants as well. He also writes about some of his darker experiences in the culinary industry telling how he and others working in various kitchens would use and abuse pills, cocaine, psilocybin, LSD, or heroin. In short, Anthony Bourdain is not your typical warm bubbly host.

Bourdain is often snarky, sarcastic, dark, daring, unapologetic, and unafraid to be brutally honest, curse, or make sexual references. He is the anti-Rachel Ray, a chain-smoking (though he has recently quit due to the birth of his daughter), binge drinking, punk rock enthusiast and counter cultural junkie, who refuses to do the typical tourist thing as much as he can. He did an entire episode in Egypt, but he never went anywhere near a pyramid. Bourdain hates the over-commercialization and lack of truly authoritative cooking that has become so common in food and cooking shows these days. One has no reason to wonder at the fact that Bourdain’s No Reservation’s is the only show on the Travel Channel that begins with a warning to the viewer regarding its adult and explicit nature.

No Reservations is in its 5th season as a show. Bourdain has traveled to numerous countries, cities, and areas including all over Europe, Paris, Uzbekistan, Vietnam, Spain, South Florida, Peru, Sweden, Japan, India, Korea, Indonesia, Ghana, Ireland, Namibia, shanghai, Hong Kong, Cleveland, Tuscany, Jamaica, Laos, Saudi Arabia, Egypt, the Azores, Sri Lanka, and the Philippines. It was nominated for an Emmy for its episode in Beirut in which during the second day of filming the 2006 conflict between Israel and Lebanon broke out. The show was not a normal one as they were only able to go to one restaurant. Instead, most of the episode followed the cast and crew as they were forced to stay isolated in a hotel. Encounters with Hezbollah supporters driving by waving flags as celebratory gunfire was heard cracking throughout the streets. Each day they heard planes sweeping overhead as they were left to ponder their fate amongst other trapped expatriates. Eventually with help from a government agent, whose face is blurred throughout the episode, they are guided to a military ship and eventual safety from such a shocking and dangerous situation. I remember when this conflict began as I was studying at the University of Barcelona during this time. It always seemed so crazy and wild to me that such a terrible event and conflict was taking place just on the other side of Homer’s wine dark sea the Mediterranean. Anyway, this should allow one unfamiliar with the show some fair idea or sense of what the show is about, mainly the fact that it is not the usual cookie-cutter travel and food show.

Since Bourdain is a native New Yorker, and is unabashed in his love and pride for his city, much of the Chicago episode is spent comparing and contrasting the “Second city” and its eastern counterpart. The episode begins with Bourdain accompanying a local Chicago resident named Peter Engler to a Southside restaurant called Fat Johnnies Famous Red Hots. There they indulge in a supposedly somewhat well known item, though unbeknownst to me, though I am definitely not a native Chicagoan, I have spent a fair amount of time in the city, known as The Mother in Law, which is a hot dog with all the fixings and a tamale on it. It derived its namesake from the fact that it is supposed to give you indigestion like only a mother in law can. They also enjoy a Mighty Dog which includes the hot dog and the tamale, as well as some chili. Bourdain also comments on how the tamale likely made its way to the area around the time of the World’s Fair in 1893 from Mexican or Indian immigrants. I was glad learn this factoid, as I wondered at the large selection of tamales that are offered in the groceries stores even here in Valparaiso.

As a New Yorker, Bourdain professes his dislike of Chicago style deep dish pizza preferring the thinner and larger slices from his home state. He jokingly calls Chicago style pizza lasagna with a crust. He visits a pizza joint that is called Burt’s Place. The owner Burt works in the restaurant by choice as he is somewhat eccentric and greatly passionate in his love for pizza and his restaurant. He strives to use only the best and most fresh ingredients he can. Bourdain does concede that he likes the crust and Burt’s passion for good food, fresh ingredients, and his genuine nature. Bourdain notes the deep dish pizza’s similarity to a pot pie in that they are heavy, hearty, starchy, and filling items. He also notes the large size of the pizzas as well as the large proportioned clientele of the restaurant that he semi-seriously and jokingly mentions shoveling down their fourth or fifth portions.

Next, Bourdain and his host visit a fishery smoke shack. Bourdain eloquently remarks on the industrial history of Chicago as they arrive at the Calumet Fisheries. The place is right alongside the Calumet River and is one of the few remaining riverside fish smoke shacks in the area. Bourdain walked away impressed by their tradition and technique as well as the smoked salmon, smoked shrimp, and fried smelts.

From there they make their way back into the city where Bourdain notes Chicago being a great place for avant-garde cooking. They meet Chef Homaru Canto who describes his cooking style as culinary terrorism. At his restaurant Moto, he offers such unique items as an edible menu or a dish that is called Road Kill. Canto refuses to give into traditional cooking methods as he uses torches among other radical techniques to deconstruct and create dishes.

Bourdain also visits local radio shock-jock Mancow Muller. Mancow takes Bourdain to a restaurant named Silver Palm where they discuss the economic and social differences between the Southside and the Northside of Chicago. There Bourdain, who refers to himself as an “egg slut,” tries the sandwich known as Three Little Pigs. The colossal and hulking sandwich consists of ham, pork cutlet, eight strips of bacon, and two fried eggs all covered in gruyere on a bun. It looks unreal.

Bourdain showcases other trendy restaurants like Avec or Blackbird, but chooses to stop at L20 which is run by the highly acclaimed chef Laurent Gras. Bourdain and his host enjoy many exquisite and succulent fish dishes as they discuss why such a great restaurant is in Chicago and why Gras choose such a location instead of New York. They come to the conclusion that Chicago is a less pretentious place where people would truly appreciate such great food where in New York people are more concerned with their busy lives and social appearances than they are truly concerned in enjoying excellent food. They also feel that Chicago has a greater feeling of freedom than New York. One is often constrained and negatively influenced by the pressures of the Big Apple. Bourdain also comments on the fact that though Chicago often has to fight the stigma of being “the second city” though it is in fact in no way inferior to New York.

Bourdain then goes on to even grudgingly admit that Chicago has a better hot dog than New York does. It is hard for Bourdain to admit to this as he especially is a fan of any meat in tube form. He has high praise for and greatly lauds the Chicago Red Hot dog. He then goes to a place called Hot Doug’s. There he enjoys their formerly illegal and infamous foie gras hotdog and their fries which are fried in duck fat. Chicago of course has been a focal point in the foie gras debate as it was one of the first cities to ban the item.

Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations episode in Chicago really does a great job of showing how the city is metropolitan, but unpretentious. The host remarks on how the city is a place of contrast and possibly indefinable, but he feels it is a fantastic place where its people eat for sustenance as well as to eat well and enjoy it. The show provides an interesting look at the food and culture of the massive and iconic Midwestern city of Chicago.

Posted in Essays, Food | 2 Comments »

Italian Beef a Chicago Hallmark?

Friday, February 20th, 2009

For some serious musing on the ties between Chicago and Italian Beef sandwiches, go to

http://chicago.straightdope.com/sdc20090219.php

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Midwestern Food

Wednesday, February 11th, 2009

In response to Lynette’s email about Midwestern food she remembers, here are some of my family’s favorites:

Ah, yes, I love persimmon pudding! My aunt makes quite a bit of it in late summer, early fall. You can also make bread, cookies, and fudge from it that is quite scrumptious. Zucchini pie/bread is another dessert that my family often makes around Thanksgiving. Boiled cabbage and pineapple cheese salad are other favorites. In the summer we eat a lot of fried squash (the green is the best, yellow squash isn’t quite as tasty). You slice it real thin, dust it with either flour or cornmeal, and fry in vegetable oil (the fish fry mix also works quite well). We also enjoy cooking green and yellow squash in butter, throwing in red peppers, onions, and occasionally mushrooms in a big frying pan.

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