Valpo Voyager

Student Stories from Around the World

Page 59 of 124

Heading Home Tomorrow

This time tomorrow I’ll be flying back to the United States.

Like semesters at Valpo this semester in China seems to have passed in the blink of an eye, yet held a lifetime worth of experiences. (Okay, that’s a bit of an exaggeration.)

I’ve spent the better part of the last two weeks reflecting on my experience here, trying to summarize what I’ve learned and how I’ve grown. I probably won’t fully understand the effect China has had on me for at least another couple months, after I’ve reacclimatized to the States. Although I recognize that culture is a powerful global force, my experiences here have continually reinforced similarities we share all across the globe. Although now I’m trying to tease apart the difference between culture and humanity, as I think I have overly amalgamated the two.

While Christmas trees and other holiday decor remains few and far between, the balmy t-shirt wearing weather is (finally) gone. The cold, grey chill of December should make the transition back to Valpo a bit less harsh.

Classes wound down without much fanfare. My Valpo class’s final was a week ago and we had a short Chinese final on Friday.

Learning Chinese, although daunting at times, was great fun. Even I made rapid progress. This was definitely the way to learn a language: living in among the language/culture, taking an intensive course load and sharing it with a dynamic group of classmates. Maybe someday I’ll return to Chinese for a couple years to gain fluency.

On Wednesday my Chinese class went out to dinner as a send-off party for myself and Professor Pati (who also studied Chinese with my class). We dined at the Vineyard, an American-style sports bar and restaurant. Our three Chinese teachers came along which was really neat. I have greatly appreciated the way the Chinese teachers interact with the international students—they treat us as adults (some of us are) which leads to some very interesting discussions and lots of laughter. (One more hilarious memory was a class where we got distracted translating epic movie phrases from English to Chinese, such as “I’ll be back!” and “You shall not pass!” which sound significantly less intimidating in Chinese.)

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At the Vineyard I spent most of the evening talking about culture and politics with a Ukrainian and Pakistani. The U.S. Senate had just released its damning CIA Torture Report, so I was feeling pretty sick about America’s moral standing. Yet here I was sharing friendly conversation with a student from Pakistan—a nation that has a justifiable reason to despise our government. Now it is hard to know anyone’s true feelings on political matters, but my time in China has definitely reaffirmed the belief that although government and extremist organizations may portray the world as a violent and scary place, most people are much more interesting in being friends holding anger. (At least within the educated demographic.) Also, curiosity seems to be a universal phenomena—we all asked questions about how people think/do/view things in _________ (insert home country).

Overall it was definitely one of my favorite evenings in Hangzhou. (Even if I got into an argument with the other American in the class about U.S. military policy towards Russia. Admittedly I enjoyed the argument.)

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On Thursday I attended my final Big Bang English Club. I’ve been going weekly since September and made many more Chinese friends at it than on campus. I was nicely spoiled, they treated my like a celebrity. Given the approximately 10:1 Chinese to foreigner ratio, the Chinese were very comfortable chatting which I hope gave me a bit of insight into their daily lives and opinions which I lacked living in a dorm (a homestay would’ve been much appreciated, but only so many things can be fit in 4 months).

Hefang Street

Hefang Street

This weekend flew by with packing, an adventure downtown, miscellaneous ‘desk work,’ and good byes to my Chinese friends. Though it wasn’t without something new.

On Saturday as I was walking back to campus from last minute gift-shopping on Hefang Street. I decided to climb a bouldered ridge near West Lake to get back to campus. The bare rocks provided a 270˚ view of the city and ranged from a walking path to a 20’ vertical face I nearly got stuck climbing down the previous week. The boulders were fun to scramble across thanks to the lack of guard rails and other safety restrictions which would surely be in place if this were in the States.

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From the boulders I headed into the forest as darkness was descending. The city was coming alight and plenty of Chinese had gathered on the boulders to enjoy the view. The most beautiful scene unfolded in the forest around us where hundreds of high powered flood lights illuminated the forest. The lights shown up into the leaves almost as if the stars had come down from the sky and settled amongst the trees. While I don’t want to consider the kilowatts needed to light up the hillside I found waling backing to campus through the lit-up woods to be a magical experience.

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West Lake

Goodbye to Chinese friends!

Goodbye to Chinese friends!

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Well I should probably get back to packing and cleaning!

Christmastime in Germany: It’s Truly the Most Wonderful Time of the Year

Germany is OBSESSED with Christmas. They start decorating in mid-November, and keep celebrating until Three Kings Day, on January 6th. The word in Germany for Christmas is Weinachten, and the highlight of the Christmas season in Germany is the Weinachtsmarkt. Every German city has these Christmas markets at some point throughout Advent, in the center of town. Some last all of December, some only a few days.

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St. Nikolaus in Munich.

 

The towns around Reutlingen are no exception. Reutlingen itself has a Weinachtsmarkt for a full month before Christmas. Tübingen has a Chocolate Market, only for a weekend, which is quite unfortunate. We’ve gone to three already, in Reutlingen, Munich, and Salzburg (technically not in Germany, but as it’s on the border of Austria and Germany, I feel like it counts.)

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Salzburg, all lit up. The lights in the middle of the square next to the big pretty building are where the Christmas market is.

 

There are a few things at every Weinachtsmarkt. Adorable Christmas ornaments, nativities, wreathes, delightful baked goods, and an overabundance of Glühwine. What is Glühwine exactly? It is a warmed mixture of wine with spices such as nutmeg and cinnamon, more commonly known in the US as mulled wine. I really, really like Glühwine and am very pleased that you can get it everywhere at Christmastime. There are also non-alcoholic versions, for those who don’t wish to imbibe and for the kids. While Glühwine is traditionally made with red wines such as port or claret, Germans sometime will also serve white wine versions.

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Hoards of people around a Glühwine stand in Salzburg.

 

The warm Glühwine is even better enjoyed while strolling around a Christmas market. Germany in general has a far milder climate than the Midwest, but it is also a much more humid climate. It’s the kind of cold that sinks into your bones if you stand still for too long, but doesn’t seem bad at all when you’re moving around. The Glühwine is another excellent technique for combating the chill. The non-alcoholic version even tastes like cider, so you have the classic American fall drink covered!

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The square in front of the Munich town hall, all gussied up for Christmas.

 

Another welcome part of the German holiday celebrations: they drape all of the shops downtown and around the Christmas market in lights. Of course, just like at home, they began decorating well before Thanksgiving, which is highly unnecessary. Then the season of advent came and the streets were delightful. I always give myself from Thanksgiving to New Years to enjoy Christmas, and Germany seems to be on the same page.

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Storefront in Munich decorated for Christmas.

So while the weather here seems to avoid freezing, and I have no snow to remind me that it’s December, the Christmas markets sure help. I may go to the Reutlingen one again this weekend. Or to the medieval one in Esslingen. Or to the one in Cologne… so many choices!

Merry Christmas from Germany!

 

How to Make Spätzle: A Schwabian Food Special

Our faculty here is awesome. Have I mentioned that? Since we have such a small class here in Reutlingen this year, our Art History professor invited us to his house for class one day. Furthermore, since his home is in Tübingen, and we missed our usual lunch break, Herr Springer also made us lunch.

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Best Day of Class Ever. Sorry other teachers/professors.

 

It was delightful, and really delicious. (Who knew that a simple cucumber salad could be so good? It’s just cucumbers, cream, and vinegar, but it’s so refreshing.) And as an added bonus, we learned how to make Spätzle, traditional Schwabian (regional) egg noodles. The dough is fairly simple: eggs, flour, water. But, unlike regular egg noodles, the ratio of eggs to flour in Spätzle is really high. This makes the dough really, really sticky. It takes a special press to push it through the noodle maker, and even with the special tool, it’s a ton of effort. The dough is so sticky that instead of scraping the last bits of dough out of the mixing bowl, the dough peels off the side. Before being cooked, the dough is the consistency of epoxy or high grade industrial grout.

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Filling the noodle maker.

 

The noodles are pushed through the dough maker (there might be an official name for this, but I don’t know) and into an already boiling pot of water. They sink to the bottom, but when they finish cooking, they float, right up to the top. The cooked noodles are fished off with a strainer ladle and put into a glass pan.

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Push really hard…

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… and you’ll get Spätzle.

 

Here’s the funny thing about Spätzle: it’s really like the Schwabian version of really good homemade mac and cheese. Once in the glass pan, the noodles are covered with grated cheese. Herr Springer also added bits of fried onion and ham. Then the Spätzle is baked for about a half hour, long enough that the cheese melts and the ham bits get crunchy. Then you eat it, in gratefulness to whomever came up with the brilliant idea to melt cheese on noodles.

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A finished plate of Spätzle, waiting for delicious ham and onion.

 

Spätzle is a Schwabian specialty, and restaurants all over Baden-Würtemberg and the other southern German state, Bavaria serve it. Still, the best Spätzle is homemade Spätzle.

Verein, Verein, Verein

So, in Germany there is a strong tradition of organized club activities. The right to found a club is listed in the German constitution, and is something that is taken very seriously here. People are highly dedicated to putting a good effort into whatever field of interest they might have, be it sewing, sports, or any other type of hobby. The idea behind these groups is that they can work together to improve at whatever given skill they choose.

Currently, I am participating in 2 Vereine,  a theater group and a Blasorchester.

Today I am going to talk about the Blasorchester, because we have an upcoming concert. Blasorchester is translated to English as wind band. It is a privately organized group that consists of a bunch of community members playing their instruments for fun. Unlike in the U.S. arts and sports activities are largely organized through schools, in Germany they are purely in the domain of free-time activities. This means that many of the Vereine have loyal memebers who have been participating for as long as 40 years and also a much larger span of ages and life experiences.

Recently we had a year end concert, which consisted of a combination of traditional polkas, modern artsy pieces and a slew of popular music settings that the audience could sing along to. My favorite piece was entitled “Die Klarinettenmückl” (The Clarinetbug) and featured soli from the clarinet section. It worked well because it highlighted the strong mid-section of the band.

I also got a new band uniform, one very different than any of the black band dresses I have previously had to wear in concerts:

 

My traditional band uniform

My traditional band uniform

When I asked about the origins of this colorful outfit, which consisted of a very lacy blouse, a pink vest, a green jacket and a pink scarf, I was told that it stemmed from traditional German peasant clothing, often called “Tracht” the same category that contains some of the more well known peasant clothing like dirndls and lederhosen (which for the record, are not traditional to the region where Tübingen is located). It was a lot of fun to get dressed up and to see how a different band  uniform worked. I for one have had my share of marching and concert band outfits and although this one was pretty okay, and definitely the most brightly colored one that I have ever worn.

Overall, I really enjoy playing in the band. It helps me to feel at home and connected within the community here in Tübingen. It gives me a change of pace from the normal college student crowd and lets me see a different side of German culture.

Bis bald!

Shop ‘Til You Drop- One day in Tokyo edition

Last Friday I took a night bus from Kyoto to Tokyo to save money.  As convenient as the shinkansen is, it’s rather expensive.  So my friend and I arrived at Tokyo Station at about 7:30am on Saturday morning.  We first visited Meiji Jinggu Shrine since it was the only thing open at that time of day except one donut and coffee place in the station.  That’s one of the things that doesn’t cease to surprise me about Japan.  Nothing except bars and restaurants are open past eight and nothing opens earlier than nine or ten in the morning.  Even on a Saturday in Tokyo, the most densely populated city in the world.  Eventually things started opening up, though.  First we walked Omotesando Hills, a high-class, almost exclusively brand-name shopping district.  After that, we headed toward Harajuku’s Takeshita Street, the youth fashion district of Tokyo.

IMG_1476It really was something.  From lolita to grunge to used clothing, Takeshita-dori has it all.  It would take several days to properly investigate every store, but even just walking through and looking in only a handful of stores was really cool.  A lot of it was less expensive than I was expecting, though I only bought a really cute headband from BODYLINE.  There are also several places to get crepes as well as a few cafes, so we stopped for crepes at the place with the biggest line.

Part of one of the display cases full of replicas of the crepes they were selling with their rank in popularity as the number.  There were three whole display cases.

Part of one of the display cases full of replicas of the crepes they were selling with their rank in popularity as the number. There were three whole display cases.

I got the one called "Flamingo," which had strawberry ice cream, strawberries, chocolate, and whipped cream.  Fantastic!

I got the one called “Flamingo,” which had strawberry ice cream, strawberries, chocolate, and whipped cream. Fantastic!

After Harajuku we hopped the loop line to Shibuya, the famous shopping district where I wanted to explore the famous 109 and the shops around it.  Naturally, we used the famous Scramble Crossing (after visiting Hachiko), where seven roads meet at a single intersection.  Right across from the station is a seven-floor Tsutaya, a popular media vendor and rental company.  I’ve never seen one that big, even in Osaka.  It was incredible!  They even had their own Starbucks inside.  I also walked around 109 for a little, but because of time restraints I didn’t look on every floor.  It did look a lot like the malls back in Osaka Prefecture, though!

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109 In the background!

After spending a few hours in Shibuya, we moved on to the Udagawa area to look for my friend’s hotel.  After that was settled, we moved on to Akihabara, a kind of nerd/pop culture shopping/amusement area.  There are multi-story arcades house floors of crane machines as well as the arcade games.  My favorite is the game where you flip a table and get higher scores for the amount of damage you do.  It’s kind of like being Wreck-it-Ralph, only you just flip a table.

Akihabara at night.  Even though I went there before, I was completely lost because it looks very different at night.

Akihabara at night. Even though I went there before, I was completely lost because it looks very different at night.

There’s also a lot of the prize machines where you put in coins, turn the handle, and a random prize in a little round capsule comes out.  They have all sorts of prizes, but a lot of them are charms of different characters from popular anime/manga.  The best one I saw was one that had “Eiga Dorobou” in it.  “Eiga Dorobou” literally means “movie thief,” and he appears at the beginning of every movie in Japanese theatres that I’ve been to.  Japan tracks and enforces illegal downloading much more than America does, so there’s little videos before every movie reminding viewers that it’s illegal to record the movie, etc., but Eiga Dorobou is a man in a suit with a camcorder for a head and he’s chased by the police who are men in suits with police siren lights for heads so it’s still pretty amusing.  You can find the Eigo Dorobou videos on YouTube even.  Needless to say, I got a little Eiga Dorobou charm.  I’m actually a little disappointed I didn’t get a few more.  Definitely going to be checking the “gacha machines” nearer to home for more!

After shopping and wandering through arcades for good crane machine prizes, it was time for me to hop a night bus back home.  I almost missed it, however, because I had be misinformed about where the bus loading terminal was.  With only a few minutes until departure, I started panicking.  But I asked a man passing by where to go and he ended up leading me to where they were.  He even ran to help me try to make it on time when I showed him my ticket and the departure time was only a minute away.  In the end, I had to run across the entire bus terminal because of course my bus was at the far end.  But the driver had waited five minutes for me so I ended up getting home alright, if a little frazzled.

Mischief Managed

For those of you who know the series, you would have figured out just from the title of this blog that this is about Harry Potter. Being in the home of Harry Potter, it is only fitting that we would take a trip to the Warner Brothers Harry Potter Studios just outside of London. For any Harry Potter fan who comes to the UK: GO SEE THE STUDIOS. It was the most amazing thing. My face was frozen in a perpetual smile, and I think I even cried. Seriously, go see it.

I went with three friends to see the studios on Friday. Naturally, since there were four of us, we all had to dress up as a student from each of the four houses. I was the only one wearing green, so I ended up being from Slytherin. We completed our ensembles with chapel robes borrowed from Westfield House next door. We had people stop and take pictures of us because of how dressed up we were.

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Our first stop was King’s Cross Train Station, where we stood in line and took pictures at Platform 9 3/4. Since I was from Slytherin, they let me wield the wand of Voldemort. I felt quite powerful, and I’m pretty sure that I cursed a lot of other people in our line. Oh well.

Going to Hogwarts at Platform 9 3/4

Going to Hogwarts at Platform 9 3/4

The studios themselves were fascinating. There were so many different sets to see. They had sets from Harry’s bedroom, the Gryffindor Common Room, the Ministry of Magic, Harry’s house on 4 Privet Drive, and so many more. They saved a ton of props and costumes from the movies and had them on display as well. My favorite had to be Dumbledore’s office. It was a little bit smaller than I imagined, but other than that, it looked exactly like it does in the movies. Everything was there, including the sorting hat sitting on a shelf. We had a great time taking pictures in front of everything and reliving our childhoods in the days of our youth when we first read and watched Harry Potter. It was truly a magical (no pun intended) day.

Harry's and Ron's Outfits from "Harry Potter and the Philosopher's Stone"

Harry’s and Ron’s Outfits from “Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone”

Dumbledore's Office

Dumbledore’s Office

The Great Hall

The Great Hall

I felt that the title for this blog was appropriate not only because of its reference to Harry Potter, but because our time in Cambridge is coming to a close. We are nearly through with this semester, and I have to say that I don’t know where the time went. It seems like yesterday that we were all meeting each other for the first time and getting on a plane to fly halfway across the world. I know that I speak for everyone in Cambridge when I say that this has been an unbelievable semester, and that we will cherish the memories we have made here when we return to Valpo.

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Shanghai

Last weekend our Valpo group visited Shanghai. To say our two and a half day exploration, ‘scratched the surface’ might be a bit of an exaggeration. Shanghai as the biggest city in the world (by some measurements).

I’ve gotten used to being swallowed by cities here, so Shanghai wasn’t a surprise. The hour-long high-speed train ride from Hangzhou to Shanghai never really got made it out to the countryside, we’d zip by an apartment complex at least every few minutes.

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While it was a nice weekend, most of us were feeling windswept by the recent Midterms, Thanksgiving dinner, and the rapid approach of our December departure. So we weren’t quite on our sightseeing game.

Public transport is big in China. And when I say ‘big in China,’ remember that China is already huge. I wonder if one couldn’t measure a slight bit of the earth’s curvature in the train station corridors.

We used Shanghai’s extensive subway system during our stay which I quickly became a fan of. The stations can end up being the size of malls meaning paying attention to the extensive signage is crucial. Stations are everywhere and trains are regular and quick. And if I’m going to be squished (an small downside to public transit) I’d take the subway over Hangzhou’s jerky buses any day.

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A bit of lunch on Friday.

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Downtown Shanghai, near government buildings

Our first stop was the Shanghai History Museum which shared a lot of similarities both in layout and content to the history museum we visited in Xi’an in August. The exhibits are almost exclusively relics (either replicas or originals, it is impossible to tell), accompanied by captions. While the ornate pieces of jade, coins, weapons, jewelry, pottery and clothing are very impressive I always come away wanting more. The exhibits provide no storyline, no explanation of how the artifacts were created, and no ceremonial details.

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I think China (at least the government) is eager to highlight the beauty and craftsmanship in their history. Arguably their approach to history is much the same as their approach to current government—”we will show you all the great things we’ve done but not actually tell you how our government works.”

From the museum we strolled along a broad pedestrian boulevard towards The Bund, a fancy name for the Shanghai waterfront. The strip is a commercial showcase from M&M to Apple to Forever 21 to Omega. Postmodern and classic architectural structure clash behind a smattering of giant blazing billboards. Meanwhile sly street vendors try to interest us in cheapie strap-on “roller skates,” fake Rolexes or ‘massages’—aka, prostitutes.

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I actually visited the waterfront twice the first evening we were in Shanghai. The first time was before dusk so the famous city lights weren’t on—hence the return later that evening. Of course there were throngs of people, but that is almost a given in China, especially Shanghai.

The riverfront had been entirely cemented and I guessed it was high tide (and tidal). Organic flotsam and trash floated along in the grey water while two lanes of ships moved up and down the river. Using the passing 40’ shipping containers on one barge I estimated the largest ships—bulk freighters, were up to 250’ long. The bulk freighters, filled with sand or gravel, travelled upriver with the deck only a few feet above the waterline. It took a few minutes to realize that the big boats heading downstream were the same freighters as those going upstream. But being empty they rose dramatically 15-20’ feet out of the the water almost entirely exposing their bulbous bow, and making them look exponentially larger than their loaded brethren. As an engineer and Alaskan dock worker I found the watercraft particularly interesting.

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Saturday morning we we visited the Yu Garden. Hundreds of years old the garden was made up of primarily water features, craggy rock formations and halls. It was pretty neat.

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The rest of the day was spent exploring various touristy shopping markets. First we explored a crowded market/mall selling everything from jewelry to sportswear to Christmas decorations. We then ventured to the upscale ‘French Quarter,’ we wondered through the maze of alleys passing numerous bars and artsy shops. A much better place for window shopping in my opinion.

That evening I strolled through the neighborhood around our hotel with a few classmates. The streets of Shanghai definitely carry a different vibe than Hangzhou. The sidewalks were much emptier—fewer pedestrians, cyclists, and mopeds. It seems that Shanghai’s extensive subway system has dramatically changed transit patterns from the multi-use streets of Hangzhou. Secondly, in Hangzhou we’ve become accustom to walking in traffic—seriously the number of times I could touch the side of moving cars and buses is almost scary. In Hangzhou the drivers are great, but in Shanghai the vehicles rule the road and one better stay out of their way.

That night a thunderstorm swept through Shanghai providing an mystic touch to the sprawl outside our twelfth floor hotel room.

Sunday morning we were free to do as we pleased. I contemplated going to the east side of the river to explore the newer financial district with the big skyscrapers but instead I opted for a simpler route. I took the elevated train to the Zhongshan Park station. I had no clue what Zhongshan Park was, but I really like greenspaces so I figured it was worth the adventure. It turned out to be a lovely spacious park in a nice part of town. Children played, young couples took wedding photos, elderly gentlemen flew kites, a few countyfair-style rides had a taker or two, and old folks practiced tai-chi in the more secluded sections. I will miss the parks here, they are well maintained, landscaped and often contain a vibrant spectrum of society.

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Travel back to campus ended up being more interesting than we had expected as two of us (including me) got separated from the group at one subway stop. Luckily we had phones and no trouble reaching the train station—except that the other group ended up on the opposite side of the cavernous station so we had to do a bit of extra walking.

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Once we got back to Hangzhou we again split up to take a combo of metro, bus, and taxi back to campus through the rainy rush hour. The metro to taxi was the best option as the bus took forever and taxis were hard to get at the train station.

Owl Cafe!

Japan and its animal cafes have recently become famous abroad, and ever since I found out there was an owl cafe in Osaka at the beginning of the semester, I’ve been planning to go.  But other travel plans kept pushing it back and just when I thought I’d have a free afternoon, a test or quiz would get in the way.  So it goes.  But this week I finally made it.

That same Monday I finally made it home from the weekend adventure in Sapporo, I previously had made plans with my speaking partner, Mizuho, to go to an owl cafe.  After class and a quick nap, I headed out to meet Mizuho at the train station and we left for Shinsaibashi.

It was about eleven dollars for a drink and an hour in the cafe, which actually turned out cheaper than the cat cafe I went to near Fushimi Inari a few weeks ago.  It was so incredible to get to see owls up close and take pictures!

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Moka-chan

Moka-chan, who we couldn’t pet I think because she was growing her first real feathers.  But she was so cute!

Barn owls will always remind me of the Guardians of Ga'Hoole books I read as a kid.

Barn owls will always remind me of the Guardians of Ga’Hoole books I read as a kid.

They also let us hold the owls, which was really cool.  Shigeji didn’t mind at all.  Actually, the lady in charge said he actually really liked people.  When she held him, he’d cuddle up against her shoulder like a baby.  They obviously had a really good bond.  It was so cute!

Mizuho with Shigeji

Mizuho with Shigeji

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They also rotated which owl got to wander around, so sometimes the owls would get quite close to us without minding.  In this picture, Shigeji is only a few inches from where I’m sitting-

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These two are best friends. :)

These two are best friends. 🙂

After our hour was up, we walked back through the shopping areas in Shinsaibashi and decided to get okonomiyaki, a famous Osaka-style dish from one of Mizuho’s favorite places.

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We also stopped for a quick picture in front of the famous Glico man, which had apparently been under construction for much of the semester.  I’m glad it was finished when we stopped by!

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Is this a Dream, or is this just Fantasy? About my Perceived Reality of Intercultural Relations in a Multi-Cultural World

One of the things that has most occupied my time since arriving in Germany is the question of assimilation or “Anpassung” as it is called in German. As I spend more time in a country that has grown to be my second home, I ask myself how central this part of my life has become to my identity. On the one hand, it feels like being here is a wonderful dream. I have a scholarship, so I don’t have to work. I have my own apartment, so it feels like I’m living on my own. I have classes, so I’m really studying. But on the other hand, it seems very separate from the reality that I have come to know whilst living in another country.

When I first lived here, it was my first time away from home, my first time away from the U.S. and my first time away from my family. I thought that because I was having an experience that was so vastly different from anything that I’d done so far in my life, that I had to change a lot throughout it. I thought that it was going to be the defining aspect in my life more so than anything else that I’d experienced. That thought process stayed with me for quite some time, actually. Even when I started at Valpo, I thought that the experience of having been abroad somehow defined me, somehow made me something totally different than I had been before. But now, living in Germany a second time, I am starting to realize that although studying abroad has helped to change many of my perspectives in life, many of the ways I look at things, many of the ways that I make decisions, it is perhaps not the end all, be all of my life. I know that sounds somehow strange to say, but I know that although I am here, I can somehow make an identity  for myself independent of what my own expectations for the other country are.

For instance, in my intercultural competence class, we did a simulation about how people react differently when they come in contact with a different culture. Half of the class was assigned to be part of a home culture and half of the class was assigned to be the visitors in the culture. One of the rules in order to make friends with the visitors was that they were supposed to tell something about themselves before the home culture would accept conversation with them. One of the most surprising things that we noticed at the end was that the visitors, upon talking with the home culture for the first time didn’t even introduce themselves when they first met. It seems like the perfectly logical thing to do when you first meet someone new. You introduce yourself to the others and let them know who you are, but for nearly every visitor that interacted with the home culture, a simple introduction was lacking. The expectation of the visitor was that they were supposed to become a part of the home culture  and learn about it and that their own culture, their own way of approaching the situation was somehow independent of the entire exchange.

Just like my real backpack, culture comes with me and has tools that help me to process the world around me.

Just like my real backpack, culture comes with me and has tools that help me to process the world around me.

And so for me this lead to a lot of thought about how I interact as a visitor in German culture. How do I ignore or overlook parts of my own culture in an attempt to look for the parts of German culture to which I should react. I have to admit, sometimes I am a bit embarrassed to admit that I am American. In part this has to do with the fact that my culture is one that is easily identifiable in the media and therefore something that many people automatically associate with a different picture in their heads than I. To be perfectly clear, it’s the media’s projection of American culture, rather than the culture itself that I find embarrassing. It makes me feel sometimes that I’m disappointing people by not living up to their expectations or having to explain that this is an image that people falsely have in their minds.  Sometimes I think that this media-based image makes me worry overreact in anticipation of being categorized by the preconceived notions of others.  It makes me too eager to assume that my identity as an American is more important than my identity as an individual. And even that is highly confusing territory. As soon as I say my name, which sounds utterly foreign to German ears, people already ask about my nationality. And so already, it seems like this is something that somehow defines me. As soon as it comes out that I’m American, it feels like everything I say is a type of comparison from things in my home country or questions about  the US or questions about “How Things Are” in German or American culture. “How Things Are” questions seem to me to be some of the dumbest questions out there  in terms of getting to know a person, because it is so intrinsically difficult to separate the individual perspective from How Things Are without misconstruing  what may just be an individual experience as a cultural norm. It also makes the individual seem less important, and although we can learn a lot about a culture by talking to the individual, it is difficult to learn a lot about the culture when talking solely to the individual or about the individual when talking about the culture at large.

One of the things that I have realized to be a difficulty insofar as being able to communicate at a deeper cultural level is my personal inability to define my own preconceived notions about German culture. On the one hand, I know the stereotype about German punctuality, but on the other hand, I also lived with a family for a year that ran on a schedule that was much more fluid than I had initially expected. I will admit, that to some extent some of the expectations that I carried with me were that Germans would automatically accept me as one of their own simply on the grounds that I was interested in their culture and wanted to learn about it. Thus far, I have found that a lot more work has got to be put into “becoming a part” of a foreign culture, if something like that even exists at all. No matter how much one changes oneself, the home culture remains looming in the background, it the way that you approach something, in gut reaction to something that you see for the first time, in a way that cannot be shed by simply the will to try something new.

And so this balancing act between my own culture and the culture around me remains. How to authentically experience a culture without simply ignoring the reality of self at hand and how to try to put aside that self without simply playing the part of something one is not.  What are the real factors that affect the nature of culture and self?

I’m off to keep looking.

Bis bald!

Sapporo, a Place Something Like Home

This weekend Sabena and I took a long trip all the way up to Sapporo in Hokkaido.  We flew out on Friday night with just enough time to find the guest house we booked and go to bed.  It was a tiny little place, but cozy.  The owners chatted with us in Japanese, which was really cool.  One of the other guests was from Osaka city, so we heard the distinctive and now familiar Osaka dialect even way up in Hokkaido, which I thought was amusing.

All the beds crammed in a small area made putting the sheets on difficult, but it was a great little guest house!

All the beds crammed in a small area made putting the sheets on difficult, but it was a great little guest house!

On Saturday we had a reservation at the Toyako Manseikaku Hotel quite a trek away from Sapporo, but we had enough time to wander Sapporo on Saturday morning and early afternoon.  Sapporo is, of course, much farther north than Osaka and so it was much colder up there.  It was actually nice, though, since Osaka was about seventy degrees (though admittedly unusually warm that day), which is unheard of back near Chicago.  I hadn’t realized how much I missed the seasonal rhythm that I was used to back home until I spent time in Hokkaido.  It was cold, but  not too cold, so I didn’t need more than my jacket.

While in Sapporo, we stopped at a ramen shop for some Sapporo style ramen on my Japanese speaking class teacher’s recommendation- though he currently lives in Osaka and teaches at Kansai Gaidai, he’s originally from Sapporo, so I asked before going what he recommended we do.  He said since it’s the off-season for tourism in Sapporo, one thing we should definitely do was try Sapporo style ramen, which uses a miso base as opposed to the salt base they use in Tokyo.  It was fantastic!

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Sapporo definitely felt a bit different than Osaka.  Though I couldn’t quite explain how, they spoke differently than in Osaka besides just not using Osaka dialect.  They also didn’t seem to be bothered by light rain as much as those in Osaka and Tokyo.  In Osaka and when I was in Tokyo, it rained just a little for a half hour or so but even though it was just a drizzle, everyone put their umbrellas up.  I even felt a little weird not bothering with my umbrella because everyone else had theirs.  But when it drizzled in Sapporo, I didn’t see any umbrellas.  Lastly, one of the most telling signals that we weren’t in Osaka was the side of the escalators and the stairs people used.  In Osaka, if you don’t want to walk up the elevator, you stand to the right so people can pass you on the left.  Everywhere else it’s the opposite.

Sometimes I forgot to stand on the correct side of the escalator, but this time I remembered!

Sometimes I forgot to stand on the correct side of the escalator, but this time I remembered!  Even while uploading this picture, I second guessed myself on whether or not I took the picture while standing on the correct side!

After exploring Sapporo a little, we took a two hour express train ride out to Lake Toya, famous for being an onsen town.  I took a Japanese public bus for the first time there since the Manseikaku was kind of far from Toya Station.  Unlike the Kansai region, the trees in Hokkaido have completely dropped their leaves.  That, too, felt more natural to me.  Though I like that Osaka is warmer than home, it still feels really weird!!  As far as everywhere I’ve seen in Japan so far, Hokkaido looked the most like home, but instead of hills like we have back in the countryside of Indiana, they have actual mountains in Japan.

Taken on the bus ride from the hotel back to the station.

Taken on the bus ride from the hotel back to the station.

Christmas isn’t really a big holiday in Japan.  Couples go on dates on Christmas and maybe a few people exchange gifts but Christmas just isn’t a big deal in Japan.  However, Hokkaido is also apparently much more into the Christmas spirit that the south.  Maybe it’s because it’s actually cold at Christmas with the potential for snow up in Hokkaido, but for whatever reason, there were so many decorations and trees in malls, stores, and stations in Sapporo in addition to nice Christmas instrumentals playing in all of those places.  Even though we had to wait over an hour in the JR station for our train from Lake Toya to Sapporo, the constant Christmas music was really nice.  I’ve been missing that!

A cool little lit pathway across the street from our hotel at Lake Toya.

A cool little lit pathway across the street from our hotel at Lake Toya.

The Manseikaku was a really nice hotel, with a nice dinner and onsen included in our stay.  It was my first time to an onsen, and I really enjoyed it- it really is very relaxing, though almost too hot.

The view from our hotel room.  Lake Toya, a volcanic caldera lake.

The view from our hotel room. Lake Toya, a volcanic caldera lake.

Sunday morning we headed back to Sapporo (after having to ask a local when the bus would come since I couldn’t make heads or tails of the schedule at the bus stop), where we had a couple hours to shop at the airport, which pretty much doubled as a mall.  There was even a chocolate factory!  -Royce chocolate, a high-quality chocolate company based in Sapporo had a factory and shop there.

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Unfortunately, our plane back to Kansai International Airport in Osaka on Sunday ended up landing a half hour late, causing us to be unable to make it home that night.  We hopped the very last train from the airport to Tennoji in central Osaka at 11:30pm, but shortly after we arrived the trains shut down for the night.  We used the little remaining battery on our pocket wifi and phones to book a cheap hotel about a kilometer walk from Tennoji station, checked in at 1am and left at 6:15 so Sabena could make it to her 9am class that day.  Luckily my only class on Mondays is at noon.  But it was still hard to get up and travel over an hour by train back to Hirakata during the Monday morning rush hour.  But to be honest, it was an interesting experience.  Japanese company workers have something of a reputation even abroad for working overtime so long that they miss their trains home and have to stay at a hotel like we did.  Since that’s part of the culture, it was actually very easy to find a cheap place to stay for the night, which made our lives easier.  All in all, a wonderful weekend!

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