Valpo Voyager

Student Stories from Around the World

Tag: kyoto

Arashiyama at the Peak of Autumn Colors

I’ve actually been meaning to go to Arashiyama for about a month now but kept getting delayed.  Earlier in November the forecast showed rain on the days I had intended to go two weeks in a row.  Another time I had to prepare for my first speech in Japanese class.  But everything worked out; the trees change colors much later here because it’s warmer here than at home.  There are still lots of threes that are completely green in our city.

If there was one drawback to going this weekend, it was the unbelievable number of people.  Arashiyama draws crowds  year round, but autumn colors season is second only to spring sakura season in Kyoto.  The trains from Makino, my home station, to the JR station in Arashiyama were incredibly packed.  I transferred four times and even the subways were more populated than usual.  I spent my entire limited express ride from home to Sanjo station squished like a sardine and I stood on the subway because there were absolutely no seats, which is unusual as far as my experiences go.  The trains from Nijo station to the station in Arashiyama were just as packed and sardine-tin like as my first ride.  It doesn’t really bother me, but it’s always interesting when I’m the only obvious foreigner packed in and as nonplussed as the locals because sometimes I catch people looking at me to see if I’m used to the trains.  Three months, a trip to Tokyo, and hours on other trains into my life in Japan, I don’t feel much about trains will surprise me anymore.  Unless they start running more than two minutes late.

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At the intersection right across the famous Togetsukyo Bridge. There were so many people that there was a three or four block line to cross the bridge to get to Arashiyama.

Throngs of people crossing Togetsukyo.  On the left side, of course.

People crossing Togetsukyo. On the left side, of course.

It was a bit cloudy at times, making it a bit chilly with the breeze off of the water, but it was still warm for what I consider to be normal end-of-November weather.

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To be honest, none of my photography (or the professional souvenir prints you can buy in the area, for that matter) truly do the sight justice, but I feel that this one is one of the closest:

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I spent several hours just walking the area.  There are several temples and a monkey park I didn’t get around to visiting, but walking even some of the trails was more than enough for one afternoon.

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Though I wasn’t in the monkey park, there were still signs on the mountain warning tourists about the monkeys, as they can be dangerous:

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“Please be careful of the wild monkeys. -Do not approach the monkeys -Do not interact with the monkeys and do not meet their eyes. -Do not give food to the monkeys.”

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It’s hard for me to describe how vast this looked in real life.  Especially for someone who has always lived in the flatlands of the Midwest, mountains feel so incredibly and incomprehensibly large.

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One of the temples in the Arashiyama area, far away, across the river, and halfway up the mountain.

One of the temples in the Arashiyama area, far away, across the river, and halfway up the mountain.

As the afternoon pressed on, the light started to filter through the leaves, creating a stunning canopy.

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I actually got a little lost trying to find the train station, but I ended up finding the bamboo forest I wanted to walk through anyway, so it turned out alright.  Especially since I remembered the train station being very close to the entrance of the forest.  Unfortunately, I missed a turn somewhere and ended up walking twenty minutes past the station, ended up on some side streets outside the Arashiyama area.  But I had a map and my Japanese, so I found the station pretty quickly, which was just as packed as it had been when I had arrived in the morning.

The bamboo forest honestly looked exactly like bamboo forests I've seen in movies, games, and anime.  It was honesly kind of surprising.

The bamboo forest honestly looked exactly like bamboo forests I’ve seen in movies, games, and anime. It was kind of surprising.

Torii as far as the eye can see- Fushimi Inari

On Saturday some friends and I went to Fushimi Inari Shrine in Kyoto.  It’s one of the most famous in the area, well-known for its abundance of torii.  The larger torii are typically bought by companies, as they typically cost many thousand dollars.  They are then erected across the mountain paths, often so close together that the paths become more like hallways.  It makes for an incredible walk.

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However, families and individuals can buy smaller torii, also in varying sizes, that they place on the many smaller altars on the mountain.

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Inari is the kami of rice, agriculture, and prosperity among other things.  Statues of Inari’s messenger, the fox, are all over the mountain.

The front of the main part of the shrine.

The front of the main part of the shrine.

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A fox at the entrance to the main part of the shrine, holding the wish-granting jewel in its mouth.

It was a long hike to the top of the mountain.  From the time we exited the nearest train station to the time we left the shrine, it probably took us over two hours, and we didn’t explore every path.  The paths aren’t exactly hiking paths, though.  Some are several hundred years old and wind through the mountain.  None are direct.  But it didn’t matter, as the scenery, torii, and smaller shrines were beautiful, especially as the fall foliage added dashes of color here and there.  (Though November is almost over, it’s the height of fall colors here.)

The view over Kyoto from roughly halfway up.

The view over Kyoto from roughly halfway up.

Additionally, that Saturday was Shichi-Go-San, a rite of passage festival day for young boys and girls ages seven, five, and three.  Pictures were, of course, not allowed of the inner shrine where the rites were taking place, but it was a beautiful but quiet festival, noticeable only by the conspicuous young children in tiny kimono.  They were adorable!  It was really cool to again see how ancient traditions are alive and well here.

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