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Tag: osaka

Shop ‘Til You Drop- One day in Tokyo edition

Last Friday I took a night bus from Kyoto to Tokyo to save money.  As convenient as the shinkansen is, it’s rather expensive.  So my friend and I arrived at Tokyo Station at about 7:30am on Saturday morning.  We first visited Meiji Jinggu Shrine since it was the only thing open at that time of day except one donut and coffee place in the station.  That’s one of the things that doesn’t cease to surprise me about Japan.  Nothing except bars and restaurants are open past eight and nothing opens earlier than nine or ten in the morning.  Even on a Saturday in Tokyo, the most densely populated city in the world.  Eventually things started opening up, though.  First we walked Omotesando Hills, a high-class, almost exclusively brand-name shopping district.  After that, we headed toward Harajuku’s Takeshita Street, the youth fashion district of Tokyo.

IMG_1476It really was something.  From lolita to grunge to used clothing, Takeshita-dori has it all.  It would take several days to properly investigate every store, but even just walking through and looking in only a handful of stores was really cool.  A lot of it was less expensive than I was expecting, though I only bought a really cute headband from BODYLINE.  There are also several places to get crepes as well as a few cafes, so we stopped for crepes at the place with the biggest line.

Part of one of the display cases full of replicas of the crepes they were selling with their rank in popularity as the number.  There were three whole display cases.

Part of one of the display cases full of replicas of the crepes they were selling with their rank in popularity as the number. There were three whole display cases.

I got the one called "Flamingo," which had strawberry ice cream, strawberries, chocolate, and whipped cream.  Fantastic!

I got the one called “Flamingo,” which had strawberry ice cream, strawberries, chocolate, and whipped cream. Fantastic!

After Harajuku we hopped the loop line to Shibuya, the famous shopping district where I wanted to explore the famous 109 and the shops around it.  Naturally, we used the famous Scramble Crossing (after visiting Hachiko), where seven roads meet at a single intersection.  Right across from the station is a seven-floor Tsutaya, a popular media vendor and rental company.  I’ve never seen one that big, even in Osaka.  It was incredible!  They even had their own Starbucks inside.  I also walked around 109 for a little, but because of time restraints I didn’t look on every floor.  It did look a lot like the malls back in Osaka Prefecture, though!

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109 In the background!

After spending a few hours in Shibuya, we moved on to the Udagawa area to look for my friend’s hotel.  After that was settled, we moved on to Akihabara, a kind of nerd/pop culture shopping/amusement area.  There are multi-story arcades house floors of crane machines as well as the arcade games.  My favorite is the game where you flip a table and get higher scores for the amount of damage you do.  It’s kind of like being Wreck-it-Ralph, only you just flip a table.

Akihabara at night.  Even though I went there before, I was completely lost because it looks very different at night.

Akihabara at night. Even though I went there before, I was completely lost because it looks very different at night.

There’s also a lot of the prize machines where you put in coins, turn the handle, and a random prize in a little round capsule comes out.  They have all sorts of prizes, but a lot of them are charms of different characters from popular anime/manga.  The best one I saw was one that had “Eiga Dorobou” in it.  “Eiga Dorobou” literally means “movie thief,” and he appears at the beginning of every movie in Japanese theatres that I’ve been to.  Japan tracks and enforces illegal downloading much more than America does, so there’s little videos before every movie reminding viewers that it’s illegal to record the movie, etc., but Eiga Dorobou is a man in a suit with a camcorder for a head and he’s chased by the police who are men in suits with police siren lights for heads so it’s still pretty amusing.  You can find the Eigo Dorobou videos on YouTube even.  Needless to say, I got a little Eiga Dorobou charm.  I’m actually a little disappointed I didn’t get a few more.  Definitely going to be checking the “gacha machines” nearer to home for more!

After shopping and wandering through arcades for good crane machine prizes, it was time for me to hop a night bus back home.  I almost missed it, however, because I had be misinformed about where the bus loading terminal was.  With only a few minutes until departure, I started panicking.  But I asked a man passing by where to go and he ended up leading me to where they were.  He even ran to help me try to make it on time when I showed him my ticket and the departure time was only a minute away.  In the end, I had to run across the entire bus terminal because of course my bus was at the far end.  But the driver had waited five minutes for me so I ended up getting home alright, if a little frazzled.

Owl Cafe!

Japan and its animal cafes have recently become famous abroad, and ever since I found out there was an owl cafe in Osaka at the beginning of the semester, I’ve been planning to go.  But other travel plans kept pushing it back and just when I thought I’d have a free afternoon, a test or quiz would get in the way.  So it goes.  But this week I finally made it.

That same Monday I finally made it home from the weekend adventure in Sapporo, I previously had made plans with my speaking partner, Mizuho, to go to an owl cafe.  After class and a quick nap, I headed out to meet Mizuho at the train station and we left for Shinsaibashi.

It was about eleven dollars for a drink and an hour in the cafe, which actually turned out cheaper than the cat cafe I went to near Fushimi Inari a few weeks ago.  It was so incredible to get to see owls up close and take pictures!

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Moka-chan

Moka-chan, who we couldn’t pet I think because she was growing her first real feathers.  But she was so cute!

Barn owls will always remind me of the Guardians of Ga'Hoole books I read as a kid.

Barn owls will always remind me of the Guardians of Ga’Hoole books I read as a kid.

They also let us hold the owls, which was really cool.  Shigeji didn’t mind at all.  Actually, the lady in charge said he actually really liked people.  When she held him, he’d cuddle up against her shoulder like a baby.  They obviously had a really good bond.  It was so cute!

Mizuho with Shigeji

Mizuho with Shigeji

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They also rotated which owl got to wander around, so sometimes the owls would get quite close to us without minding.  In this picture, Shigeji is only a few inches from where I’m sitting-

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These two are best friends. :)

These two are best friends. 🙂

After our hour was up, we walked back through the shopping areas in Shinsaibashi and decided to get okonomiyaki, a famous Osaka-style dish from one of Mizuho’s favorite places.

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We also stopped for a quick picture in front of the famous Glico man, which had apparently been under construction for much of the semester.  I’m glad it was finished when we stopped by!

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A Time and a Place – Festivals

I feel like a common stereotype of Japanese society is that pretty much everyone is polite, quiet, and reserved.  While this is, of course, just a stereotype, it’s incredibly easy to see where foreigners get this impression.  During foreign student orientation week back when we first arrived, we were all warned multiple times that what we consider quiet is not what is considered quiet in Japan.  Walls are thinner here and people live in close quarters, so average talking volume is actually really loud at night here.  Even during the day, people tend to talk quietly as they walk together.  Naturally, the trains are also pretty quiet, as it’s a public place and to speak loudly would be disrespectful to other passengers.  It can be a difficult adjustment at first, but eventually we’ve gotten used to turning our volume down.

However, that is not to say that Japan is always this way.  During orientation, we were told that bars and karaoke were a couple of places where noise was allowed.  If you pass by a karaoke bar on the way home from the train station, you’ll almost certainly be able to hear the music from inside.  Noise levels that surpass normal levels are just fine within these spaces.

More interestingly, I’ve found that festivals are where the Japanese tend to dispense with cultural and societal conventions on noise and behavior.  Recently one of my professors invited our class to an Autumn Festival in a small district in Osaka where he did research a few years ago.  This Shinto festival’s main event was the danjiri, large man-propelled and carried floats with people on top.  There are two shrines only a couple streets apart from each other, which is unusual.  Where the main road is a river used to be, until it was moved a few kilometers over as Osaka grew.  Now the two shrines have a something like battle with the danjiri where the river used to run.  Those involved with the danjiri practice all year.

Before arriving at the shrine our professor did research near, we stopped at the shrine for the other side of the street, where the miko, or shrine maidens, happened to be performing a kagura dance.  After they were finished with the dance, they passed the blessing of the kami on to us.  I was again struck by how much of traditional Japan is woven into modern Japan; this shrine and traditional dance were only one transfer and a few minutes’ walk from the main train line between Osaka and Kyoto.

The miko during the Kagura dance.  (I apologize for the poor quality of the photo.  Nighttime is not a good time for photography and most of Japan's streets are not lit well, if at all.)

The miko during the Kagura dance. (I apologize for the poor quality of the photo. Nighttime is not a good time for photography and most of Japan’s streets are not lit well, if at all.)

After that, we went to the other shrine, where the pre-danjiri festivities were taking place.  It looked something like local carnivals back home.  There were scores of little stalls on shrine grounds and on the streets nearby with games and prizes for children and fried food.  Though the food was different that at home; here there is fried squid, fried manjuu (something like a donut with sweet bean paste inside), and karaage among other things.  Festivals are also the only place where eating and drinking while walking is okay.

The danjiri gathered on the street at about nine thirty and continued moving around until ten, those carrying the floats reaching a solid jogging speed at times.  The girls following the danjiri shouted after it and formed what I can only compare to a mosh pit when the they were not moving.  A few times the danjiri would face off, only feet from each other while they tried out outdo each other with noise and the dancers on top competed as well.  Words are not sufficient for what happened, so I uploaded some raw clips to YouTube.

Honestly, things got pretty chaotic after the danjiri started moving around for real.  The spirit of “festival” infected the entire crowd until the cheering was deafening and I found it hard to get anywhere close to the danjiri.  I did talk with some luckier foreign students that managed to get closer and were invited to help carry the danjiri for a while.

So, essentially, noise and partying don’t really happen on a large scale in Japan.  But when when festivals come around, all restrictions are off because that is the time and place.

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