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Travel Update — August 24, 2013

Hey all,

Well, the Wednesday post didn’t happen, so I’ll cover the whole week in this one. Before I start, though, here’s the general timeline of my study in Budapest:

August 15 – 20 Arrive and settle in Budapest
August 21 – September 6 Intensive language course
September 9 – December 20 Budapest Semesters in Mathematics courses

As you can see, this week was split between settling in and starting the language course, and it was quite hectic. So let’s dive into it!

  • Sunday. On Sunday about a dozen BSM students met up to explore the city some and get to know each other. We started at the BSM school and headed to the Danube, and from there ended up at a cafe for lunch. Somewhat of a local dish, I had chicken over noodles (think spaetzle) with paprika sauce. Seriously, I could live off of bread soaked in paprika sauce, this stuff is fantastic. After lunch the group split and my half went up to Margaret Island, which is a recreational island in the middle of the Danube between the Buda and Pest sides of Budapest. After a total of about 8 hours of walking we headed our different ways. All the BSM students are spread across both Buda and Pest, either in apartment or homestays.
  • Monday. A bit sore from the previous day’s walking, some BSM students met at the Great Market Hall for lunch and some shopping (see cover photo). Finally was able to get some langos on the first floor, specifically a sweeter one with sweet cottage cheese and powdered sugar. Cannot go wrong for only 800Ft (~$4)! The ground floor below acts as a farmers market of sorts, with stands for anything from chicken pieces to dried fruits (all by the decigram, of course!). In the basement lurks the various and invasive smells of both fish and pickled items. Market Hall is definitely a sight to see and taste and smell, I’m sure you will hear much more of it in my future!
  • Tuesday. On Tuesday was Hungary’s national independence holiday, St. Stephen’s Day. The streets were filled with music and stands with giant pretzels, pastries, and candies. A couple dozen BSM students met up again and we walked around the city, then walked up Gellert Hill to the Citadel. Finally, the day ended in a long firework display synchronized with Hungary’s famous classical music. Check out my Twitter page for some pictures of the day’s festivities!
  • Wednesday. Wednesday marked the beginning of the language course, and they are not joking when they describe it as intensive! For those unfamiliar with Hungarian, there are 44 letters, and each are pronounced a single way (no matter where they are in the word). Further, Hungarians like their suffixes, making words quite long! However, these qualities are not negatives, but characteristics resulting in a structure with its own unique faults and beauties. I am definitely looking forward to having a better grasp on the language!
  • Thursday. The first half of Thursday was a typical set of languages lessons, but in the afternoon we all headed to the BSM school for pre-orientation (read: paperwork). Oddly enough, as I was sitting there in a room of 50 math students, I realized that this was the first time in over a week when someone has addressed a roomful of people in English. Would it be strange to say that it felt foreign?
  • Friday. With BSM business out of the way for a little while, Friday began a long string of back-to-back language sessions from 9am till 4pm. It’s a humbling experience 🙂
  • Saturday. Having a better idea of what my life in the upcoming 4 months will be like, Saturday seemed like a good day to get my day-to-day life (apartment, cell phone, etc.) in order. I headed over to Arena Plaza as a central location and tried out some Hungarian Chinese food (quite good!), acquired a SIM card for my cell phone, and walked through the magnificently large Tesco hypermarket. While maybe not as exciting as a day at the Hungarians baths or a trip to Munich, I must say that it felt good to have a day to feel at home.

As usual, let me know if you’d like to hear more about anything! Pictures from several of these events will be on Twitter soon, they’re…developing.

Come back tomorrow for a reflection on what precisely we mean by a “cross cultural experience” and why the subtle experiences seem to have the biggest impact.

FOOD!

 

 

 

 

 

Una Chorillana!!! Mmmmmmmmmmmmmm... 🙂

The one time I went out for breakfast here…and all they had on the menu was toast and butter and jam with juice and coffee…very cute…but I miss big American breakfasts!!

Yup, just some small portions of french fries…except for that they’re HUGE!

Un terremoto!

A pisco sour on the left and jugo natural on the right, I wish both were in my hands right now 🙂

Levi and Luke having a moment, as Levi tries to feed him his first ever completo…*tear*

Let’s talk about everyone’s favorite subject: FOOD!

Last year part of the money the group paid to the YMCA was to have a cook who made them dinner each night, but they changed things up this year and now they are reimbursing us up to what we pay each month to buy groceries and cook ourselves or go out to eat…it’s a sweet deal! I’m definitely focusing on the going out to eat more than the cooking, hehe 🙂

TOP 10 THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT EATING IN CHILE

1. NO TACOS. NO BURRITOS

Surprised?! I was! Turns out that’s Mexican food, and Chileans aren’t big fans of it. I have only found one restaurant with tacos here and one with fajitas. I have found none with burritos. It makes me want to cry!!

2. They are OBSESSED with salt.

Every single restaurant table has a huge salt shaker on it and usually no pepper to go with it. They put salt on EVERYTHING and lots of it! Salads don’t have dressing, just oil or lemon juice and tons of salt. One of my friends keeps salt packets in his coat pocket. I don’t even know how to describe the obsession, but it is hilarious. Also, almost nothing is spicy here. That was a big surprise for me too. Know why nothing is spicy?!…because they use salt to flavor everything!!!! Taco seasoning can only be found in a tiny space in the ethnic section of the grocery store…gotta love it 🙂

3. Chorillanas

This was recommended to me for my first meal and Chile, and wow is it good. Basically, a chorillana is a heart attack on a plate. It is a plate of thick, greasy, salty French fries, with one or two fried eggs and your choice of meat, (traditionally it is sliced hot dog, but I like it more with chicken) and then fried onions to top it off. Most restaurants make them only in portions for two people to share and they are HUMONGOUS!!! (portion sizes here are usually really big, but this is big even for Chile).

4. Eating Schedule

Let’s journey back in time to Anna’s first full day in Chile. She sat down for lunch, not that hungry, and just had something small, don’t remember what, but a normal American lunch. 6 pm rolls around and she asks when they are going to have dinner and is told “around 9’oclock”…what?! Well that’s a little weird, but she can wait…9 o’clock comes and she is handed a small jelly sandwich…hmmmmm. Luckily, now I know better, haha 🙂 The Chilean eating schedule goes like this, they “tomar desayuno” (literally, “to drink breakfast”), which is only a bit of bread, usually with manjar (see #7) or butter, and this is accompanied by tea or coffee. The focus of breakfast is the tea or coffee, some don’t even eat, that’s why it’s called “drinking breakfast”. Lunch is between 1-3 usually (they can’t believe that in the U.S. I eat at chapel break between 11-11:50  (they always tell me TAN TEMPRANO! “THAT’S SO EARLY!”) And lunch is the big meal of the day, so you have to load up on food there. A lot of restaurants are open from 12-4 and then close until 7 or 8…which is so different! I was a waitress for 4 years, and 11-2 was our busy time for lunch, we’d only keep one waitress on between 2-4:30 (and restaurants are packed during this time here) and 5-7 was our busy dinner time…and the restaurants are closed here then! Dinner is either small or non-existent. Instead, they have “onces” (which I have no idea why it’s called “onces”, because that means eleven…but they have onces around 6-7…weird). Onces consists of tea or coffee with small sandwiches or pastries or cookies. And there you have it! Very different, but I’m more used to it now.

5. Bland Carbohydrates Anyone?

The Chilean diet is carbohydrate-filled (see #10 for more). Breakfast mainly consists of bread. Humongous sandwhiches are everywhere. See # 8 for snack foods: what do they consist of? BREAD! Plus, they love, love, love potatoes. Mashed potatoes, huge portions of French fries, roasted potatoes, they love it (and of course flavoring it with lots of salt). Panderías and pastelerías (bread and pastry shops) are everywhere selling bread and pastries…ok, so I’ve beat the point to death that they love bread 🙂 But in general the diet is just more bland, with lots of carbohydrates, and I’ve even found that the chips and cookies here aren’t as rich as in the U.S. Seriously, I bought a bag of cheetos once, and the flavoring is much lighter colored and not nearly as strong, sadness!

6. MANJAR!

Chocolate rules the dessert scene in the United States, and chocolate is certainly still big here…but manjar definitely comes first. Manjar is “dulce de leche” or caramel-flavored sweetened condensed milk…I don’t really know how to describe..but it is GOOD. And super addicting. And super bad for you…winner 🙂 Chileans put it in everything! Seriously, in every single thing at pastelerias and panderias there is at least a tiny bit of manjar…it’s like they are nervous to make something without manjar, ha 🙂 You can buy it in jars to spread on things (they don’t make peanut butter and jelly here, they saw me making it once and thought it was so weird! But manjar sandwiches?! Of course!) I’m pretty sure all us gringos have our own jar in our rooms at this point, I’m definitely brining a big jar home! But still, for me chocolate will always take the cake!

7. Pisco Sour and Terremotos

Remember how Chile is known for its wine? Well, Chilean wine on its own is amazing, but terremotos make Chilean wine a dream come true. A terremoto (which means “earthquake”) consists of a type of Chilean wine called pipeño, which is really sweet, and then they scoop ice cream on top and serve it in a 1L pitcher…YUM! I can’t decide between this and pisco sour for my favorite. Pisco sour consists of pisco (which I just looked up, and it is defined as a “white brandy made from muscat grapes”..there you have it), lemon juice and sugar and sometimes egg whites (which sounds weird I know), but I think it is SO good! It’s a great mix of sweet and sour and lots of places have it in different flavors, mango and kiwi are my favorite. Oh, and if you’re in Chile, make sure you don’t attribute the invention of pisco sour to the Peruvians…unless you’re looking to start a fight, ha.  Chile and Peru both claim to have invented the drink and look on it with national pride…but obviously it was Chile! 😉

8. Anyone Want a Snack?!

Fast food in Chile: Chileans may say they don’t eat dinner, but street carts and fast food places are jam-packed at night, here are 4 of the favorite offerings:

Completos These are a big deal in Chile, Chileans LOVE THEM! Basically, it’s a huge hot dog that is COVERED in condiments (by the way, Chileans love condiments…to an extreme degree…it’s crazy). Normal completes have palta, which is mashed avocado spread, tons of mayo and chopped tomatoes. You can also get tons of varieties, like quesopletos (just cheese filled, no hot dog) or papapletos (filled with French fries instead of hot dog).

Empanadas Who has an addiction to cheese empanadas? This girl! Empanadas are all over, just like completos. There are lots of “Fabricas de Empanadas” where you can grab one quick to go, and standard fillings are cheese, chicken, seafood, and beef. But I like getting them at sit-down restaurants more, they’re usually crispier and really hot, YUM! Also, I just found a place that makes really unique empanadas, like basil, tomato and cheese, goat cheese paired with different things and manjar with pineapple (which is WAY too good)

Sopaipilla Also love these. All the main streets and plazas have tons of little street carts making and selling these fresh. It’s a circle of fried dough and the dough includes pumpkin mixed in it, which makes is slighty sweet. You can put mustard or ketchup or mayo on it, or this Chilean mixture called “pebre” which consists of onion, tomato, garlic, and herbs (they set this down with bread at almost every restaurant). But I just like them plain! And for only $100 pesos per sopaipilla (about 20 cents!), it’s one delicious deal.

Oh my papas fritas… You think that Americans have an addiction to French fries?! YOU HAVEN’T SEEN CHILE! The portion sizes here are INSANE! Be warned, you ask for a small portion of papas fritas and you will add least be delivered a full plate full, if not more. And they are the greasiest, saltiest, freshest fries ever…por qué Chile, por qué?!?!

9. Guatón!

Chileans love a good sandwich (the word is the same too :D). And their sandwiches are HUMONGOUS! Barros luco is Levi’s favorite (beef and cheese, grilled on a big white bun) and they have sandwiches in every combination you can imagine, always piled to the sky with enormous amounts of condiments, but the Guatón is the king of all sandwiches. A guatón is basically a giant sandwhich. It has layers, so there isn’t just a bun on the outsides, but buns inside to divide the layers. I have only seen them served, never witnessed one eaten…but it is a feat to be proud of. And I am proud to say that Luke Easterday did indeed finish one…I cannot witness to have seen it, but Erica and Johnna can…but I can witness to how much his stomach hurt afterwards 😉

10. Te y Café y Jugo (Tea and Coffee and Juice)

Tea and coffee is everywhere here. Lots of restaurants offer deals with sandwhiches, completes and chorillanas that include a drink and it’s usually a choice between tea, coffee and juice. I think it’s really funny to offer tea with these huge fast food options, but everyone does it! Chileans tend to prefer tea over coffee and almost always have it with breakfast and onces.

Chilean coffee, to be blunt, is gonna be disappointing to an American. They definitely don’t have the same coffee culture that we do. Restaurants with a good selection of lattes do exist, but sizes are small and it’s not as rich. Be warned that if you just order coffee, you will often be served a cup of hot water with a packet of instant coffee…yuck. Finding a Starbucks in Vina del Mar, the next town over, was a beautiful, BEAUTIFUL day 🙂

Chile has made me addicted to fruit juice. They don’t just do apple and orange juice here, they have every possible kind, blueberry, peach, strawberry, banana, kiwi, SO GOOD! Plus, almost every restaurant also offers “jugo natural”, which is freshly squeezed juice mixed in with sugar and water and it is absolutely heavenly. It’s rich and pulpy, but also very light because of the water and it comes in big, pretty glasses with fruit on the rim, so you feel special for ordering it 😉 Plus, it’s usually pretty cheap! This is another thing I am definitely going to miss.

There's even a fast food chain named "El Guaton", here's the menu!

So there you have it! And now I’m hungry…cheese empanada anyone?!

An unscientific poll

Me and some of the other international students who participated in my informal survey.

My time in Mexico will be coming to an end soon, which means “real life” will be starting up again (sad face). I know what I’ve thought of this experience, and you’ve probably been able to tell how I felt through my posts. With that being said, I conducted a highly unscientific poll over this past week to find out what other people thought of their experiences in Mexico (the good, bad, the awesome, and the terrible). Here’s what people had to say:

U.S.A.: “Mexico is a vegetarian’s nightmare. All you can eat here is Vitamin T–tacos, tamales, tortas and tequila.”

Germany: “I’m never leaving!!!!”

France: “People say that Mexico is one of the most dangerous places in the world, but they think that because they believe everything that’s on the news. I actually feel a lot safer at UDLAP than I do at my Uni back home.”

Australia: “It was hard at first, but my Spanish is finally getting better!”

Honduras: “I love Mexico!”

U.S.A: “Mexico has been the worst and best experience of my life. There are things I wish I could change, but really I’m so glad that I came here this semester.”

Australia: “Clubbing and drinking are fun for about a week, but then you kind of get burned out.”

U.S.A.: “Mexican girls should not be allowed to wear high heels if they don’t know how to walk in them.”

U.S.A.: “I decided to stay here another semester because I love it so much.”

U.S.A.: “I still don’t understand why they eat pizza with ketchup here!”

Australia: “I was supposed to go back after this semester because I’m graduating. But I’m getting a job teaching English. I never want to leave!”

U.S.A: “I’ve had a good time so far, but I am starting to feel a little bit homesick. I think it’s time to head back to the States.”

U.S.A.: “Mexico equals Love!!!!!!!!”

That was just some the feedback I got during my random and rather awkward poll. Remember everyone’s study abroad experience is going to be different. Even if you have a rocky time know that wherever you go, you will never be the same when you come back. So take a risk and go on an adventure…today!!!!

Tapas

Tapas: small Spanish savoury dishes , typically served with drinks at a bar. Origin: Spanish tapa, literally ‘cover, lid’ (because the dishes were given free with the drink, served on a dish balanced on, therefore ‘covering’, the glass).

I would correct this definition from Oxforddictionaries.com with the present tense, “are.” Well, in part. The tradition of free tapas only remains in the province of Granada, and they don’t balance the tapa on top of the drink anymore, thankfully if you ask me. You may have had tapas in America, possibly at a Tapas Bar, there’s a good one in Indianapolis I believe. You also might have told someone about such a tapas bar, only to have them stare at you and quietly ask “a topless bar?” Clearly you have no such problem here in Granada.

A little while ago I began some independent searching on Calle Navas, which I have heard is the most famous street for bars in Spain. On Navas you reach a new bar every 4-8 steps, it’s that full of bars. Usually you can get a nice beer or wine for 1.70-3 euros and then, depending on the bar, you get anything from a small serving of Jamón Serrano to whole plate full of Mariscos (seafood, usually clams and the like). Not being a red meat eater and being a little skiddish of  clams (although fish are amazing here) I have been a big fan of Patatas a Lo Pobre, which I heartily enjoyed at Bar La Abadía. Athough the bartender was in need of a shower, he was nice enough and left me in peace as I sat outside and reviewed for midterms. What’s great (although sometimes problematic) about Spain is that no one cares how long you stay at their bar or cafe. They won’t even pester you by asking if you want another drink. The problem side is payment, sometimes you have to pretend like you’re leaving in order to get a check. Of course, that can also be quite funny. I really enjoy the relaxed manner of tapas though, sitting uninterrupted for one hour to study over good food and a beer for only 1.70 euro was just what I needed.

Inside Bar La Abadia, it was only 7PM, which is way before most Spaniards start heading out.

Although the origin is disputed, authors hold that The tapas tradition began in the XIII century when King Alfonso X the wise (el sabio) got sick and his doctor advised him to eat small bites of food with sips of wine throughout the day. When the king recovered, he mandated that nowhere in Castilla would wine be served with out a bit of food. Tradition has it that this helped the people avoid alcoholism and provided more food for those that didn´t have much money for protein rich foods. Because the tapa was balanced over the drink, it also prevented flies or other distasteful things from getting into the drink.

So, there you have it. ¡Vamos de tapas! (Let’s go out for tapas!)

English Pub Life: Something for Everybody

Whether you’re looking for some great English food, a satisfying drink, a place to watch football games or a few friendly faces to have a casual conversation with, English pubs are the place to go. Over the course of the past two months I’ve visited countless pubs in England and have enjoyed every one of my experiences. The people are always friendly and despite my friends and I being foreigners, we are always made to feel welcome – even the ones who know next to nothing about football. Pubs are a place people come to simply enjoy a drink and socialize with other locals or strangers from other places, like myself.

For a guy like me, there isn’t much better than watching football at the pubs in England. And for a guy like me, I was able to realize that during the first day I arrived in this country. In the United States, I had to wake up as early as 6:00 a.m., even 4:00 a.m. on one occasion, to watch my favorite football team play. Restaurants and bars are certainly not open at this time, although even if they were it wouldn’t make much of a difference for me. Most of the time I was forced to watch matches on the internet through live streaming as the English Premier League is rarely televised in North America. In other words, I was alone in my room celebrating whenever my team scored a goal. Apologies once again to all my past roommates!

Thankfully in Kenya the time difference ensured I only stayed up as late as 1:00 a.m. to watch a football match. And thankfully, more often than not I was able to watch most of the matches at a crowded restaurant or bar surrounded by other avid football fans. It was always a weekend tradition for my family. Whenever Saturday or Sunday afternoon arrived, my Dad and I would drive to a restaurant thirty minutes before kick-off in order to get a seat for the match. Occasionally we even managed to convince my Mom to come along. Regardless of who was playing, it was always destined to be an enjoyable time and capable of being the highlight of any weekend.

Several hours after arriving in Cambridge back in August I strolled down to a pub called Sir Isaac Newton’s which was located just two blocks away from my house. It was there that I watched my first football match in England and it was there that I received my first taste of English culture. The match on TV wasn’t even one I really cared too much about and more than anything it was just a chance to experience the pub life in England. I was not to be let down. Everyone in the pub had nothing but football coming from their lips and it was a warm welcoming to a brand new country to be able to talk to complete strangers about everything and anything pertaining to football. It was an easy common ground and it provided a platform to meet new people and served as an early indication of how friendly people in England are.

On some occasions and depending on the importance of the match, the pub can be filled with all types of people. Young, old, men, women, even children. A few nights ago I watched a Carling Cup match between Manchester United and Wolverhampton and sat next beside a table where an elderly couple who appeared to be in their 70’s was sitting. When it comes to people’s passion for football in this country, age really is just a number!

A few weeks ago I watched an England National team match at Sir Isaac Newton’s where the entire pub was packed from wall to wall. My odds of finding a seat that night were as good as my chances of winning the National Lottery. The atmosphere inside the place was incredible, however. Dozens of fans crowded around the TV’s in each corner of the room while people at the bar stood conversing and offering their two cents’ worth on the big match. And after England ended the match victorious, instead of filtering out of the pub and heading in separate directions, the majority of the people stayed to socialize and alternate buying rounds of drinks for each other.

Even if you’re not into football, pubs in England offer provide something for everybody. In fact, there are numerous pubs in the country that don’t televise football. In fact, many don’t even have TV’s. You can’t go wrong if you’re looking for a tasty plate of food that will fill your stomach. Fish n’ Chips are a favorite about anywhere and a lot of pubs pride themselves over their wide selection of drinks available.

So if you love football or if you can’t stand it, English pubs offer something for everyone and are one of many enjoyable aspects of English culture. Well, that is as long as you’re looking to eat delicious food, drink great beverages and converse with all sorts of friendly people.

The Simple Things

Lesson learned today: Sometimes the best parts of traveling come from the most unplanned and unexpected places.

Today (14.09.2010) is the fourth full day that we have been in Berlin as a class, and while it has been one of the best trips of my life, constant travel can be exhausting.  Our days here have consisted of a class trip to something in the Berlin area for the morning and early afternoon, and then the rest of the day is ours.  Today, we had planned to go to the Berlin Art Museum, and then a smaller group of us would go to the German History Museum and then the Holocaust Memorial and museum, and then go from there.

All of these museums are highly acclaimed for their beauty, detail, and serving their function to the highest degree, and I can agree with all of them.  The art museum had many Renaissance works, which are of interest to me.  The history museum had German life and culture from 100 A.D. to 1990; I love history and could have probably spent two days there.  I was especially moved by the underground Holocaust museum.  But honestly, after four days of constant trips and museums, including three in one day, I was pretty wiped and probably cared more for my bed than the plethora of history and culture in front of me.

After a nap, which was planned for ten minutes but ended up being 3 hours, and waking up completely disoriented, my group decided to get dinner.  It was getting late, about 9 at night, and we had not eaten since noon.  We passed some coupons in our hotel and grabbed one for an Indian restaurant in east Berlin.  Why not? Prices seemed right, and Indian food would be a nice change of pace.

That turned out to be the best experience of the day.  The restaurant, called Yogi-Haus, had a great traditional Indian atmosphere, including candles.  And our waiter, as I like to say, was “the man”.  If you are unfamiliar with German culture, most waiters and waitresses will be polite and fairly prompt, but not overly friendly; their goal is efficiency.  Our waiter, after 5 minutes, seemed like an old friend.  We asked about what the best dishes were, and he told us plainly that he really couldn’t say, because they are all very good.  Sure….but as we started eating, he was exactly right.

The best part about our meal was the meal experience.  We had a flat, spicy bread that felt like a chip at first, with a tea on the house.  Then the meal, which I had Bombay Chicken with rice.  This is the best way to describe it: When you have 9 college age students, literally the entire meal talking about how good their food is, it must be near perfection.  And if you’re worried about spicy food, Matt Slentz put it well: Unlike Buffalo Wild Wings, where the spice and flavor hit you at the same time and it’s hard to enjoy, the spiciness comes after the flavor, so it only adds to it.  Well-prepared spicy food seems to be this way.  Also, the drinks were great, and at the end of the meal our waiter brought us mango shots, on the house.  The best food I’ve had so far, period.  For only 10 euros.

If you are in Berlin, I highly recommend “Yogi-Haus”.  You could not do any better.  If you are in the area, you can find them at Belzinger Straße 42.  Sometimes the simplest pleasures are the best travel experiences.

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